The Bull has something for both the beef-and-broccoli set and those seeking a challenge like frog with yellow chives. A variety of impeccable Chinese greens are always on offer (usually pea pod shoots, water spinach, mustard greens, and watercress). Fried smelt, steamed whole sole, and deep-fried chicken are customer favorites. The homemade egg rolls are fantastic -- plump and greaseless. Seaweed soup is another great starter -- the velvety pork broth is loaded with shrimp, ground pork, egg, and seaweed and finished with a dash of sesame oil. The salt-and-pepper fried shrimp is too salty for me, but otherwise faultless. I have mixed feelings about the seafood chow fun; the noodles are alternately crispy-fried and soft -- an effect that chow fun enthusiasts seek out -- but the heavily cornstarched sauce muddies the shrimp, squid, and scallops. The fried tofu is more than the menu lets on: a brown sauce covers puddinglike tofu and shiitakes. It's not the revelatory Japanese tofu with king mushrooms offered at Ken-Kee down the block, but it's close.
Price: $
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