Gideon Welles Craft Beer Bar and Kitchen | Lincoln Square | Craft Beer, Gastropub, American | Bar
Gideon Welles Craft Beer Bar and Kitchen

Gideon Welles Craft Beer Bar and Kitchen

Julia Thiel

American gastropub in the former 42° N Latitude space

Our Review

Artistic renderings of the stern-looking Gideon Welles, Abraham Lincoln's Secretary of the Navy, decorate the walls. The space looks much like your basic neighborhood bar, especially when a football game is blaring from the televisions. The 16-tap beer list and well-executed food, though, provide an incentive for those of us who aren't sports fans. The menu offers classic bar food—wings, nachos, burgers, sandwiches—with a focus on comfort food and several slightly more upscale items like bruschetta, crab cakes, and a crispy goat cheese appetizer. Given the atmosphere I wasn't expecting much from ahi tuna wontons, but the raw tuna was fresh and nicely complemented by creamy avocado, sweet yuzu juice, and spicy bits of Serrano pepper. My only complaint was that the yuzu made some of the fried circles of wonton wrapper (the vehicle for the tuna) soggy. Sweet and tangy pulled pork sliders with house-made pickles proved equally successful, and the burger was juicy and flavorful. At half a pound it's a better deal than the little sliders (the burger also comes with fries), but it has one disadvantage: the burger's juices quickly disintegrated the fluffy brioche bun. The fish and chips entree suggests that the chefs have mastered the fryer: moist fish pieces in jackets of crisp fried batter are accompanied by crispy, almost crunchy fries. Still, I wish that they'd held back on frying with the shrimp tacos. While the shrimp was tender, if it hadn't been battered and fried it might not have weighed down the already greasy tacos, which seemed to have been panfried. All was forgiven, though, when I shattered the sugar crust of the rich, creamy creme brulee and took my first taste. Like many of the other items, it's not something I'd expect to find on a bar menu—but I'm glad it's there.

Julia Thiel

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