Fred's at Barneys New York | Gold Coast/Mag Mile/Streeterville | American | Restaurant
Pricey restaurant on the sixth floor of the Gold Coast Barneys New York.

Our Review

I can think of several reasons to dine in Fred’s at Barneys New York—on the sixth floor of the new Barneys Chicago—but the food doesn’t top the list. If you’re worn out from shopping, the contemporary room provides a chic respite, at least when it’s not crowded and cacophonous. The views are terrific, especially from the tiny balcony. But the evolving menu was limited and didn’t offer the vaunted lobster salad (lunch only), contrary to what I was told on the phone. Plates for sharing included cured meats, calamari, and eggplant three ways the server couldn’t remember, but we were drawn to pizzas featuring King Arthur Flour, homemade mozzarella, tomatoes from the San Marzano valley, and olive oil from Spoleto. The crust didn’t hold a candle to Spacca Napoli’s, and the cheese got lost in a sausage-dotted topping that tasted mostly like red pepper sauce. An appetizer of chicken livers sauteed with shallots in port-wine sauce was much better. Garlic boosted al dente linguine with slightly shriveled baby clams—but not enough to make it worth ordering again. A surfeit of salt undermined the not-quite-tender osso buco, though I liked the puddinglike polenta underneath. The highlights of our meal were the deeply chocolaty warm flourless cake with creamy vanilla ice cream and the cappuccino semifreddo with golden raisins in vanilla-rum sauce. I’d take a shopping break just for them--and at $8 each, they’re reasonable for the neighborhood and less than desserts (or anything else) at the New York Fred’s.

Anne Spiselman

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Price: $$$$
Payment Type: American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa

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