Fogon | West Town/Noble Square | Mexican/Southwestern, Global/Fusion/Eclectic | Restaurant
Chef Eusebio Garcia (Amelia's Grill, Mundial Cucina Mestizo) brings his upscale Mexican food with global influences to the north side.

Our Review

Eusebio Garcia, a veteran of MK, has showcased his distinctive dishes adding Mediterranean and Asian accents to a Mexican foundation at Mundial Cocina Mestizo and Canaryville's Amelia's Bar & Grill. Now Garcia and his cousin Leo have taken that same idea north to West Town, where he's plying a menu of large, busy appetizers and entrees piled high with riotous bushes of vegetal garnish and layered with blankets of sauce, melted cheese, and cream. Overcomplication characterizes a number of them, as with slices of grilled pork tenderloin atop fat fava beans and diced andouille, their topnot of thin frazzled onions losing integrity under a salty fruited sauce. Or consider the huitlacoche quesadilla, which enfolds inky corn smut deepened by a medicinal dose of epazote and a thick billfold of melted Chihuahua cheese, the whole thing peaking in a tangle of sprouts and julienned root vegetables. Often these dishes are less than the sum of more interesting parts like a peanut salsa served with the crispy skinned chicken breast or the deeply concentrated roasted tomatillo table salsa. The multiple components at play in these plates need to harmonize or be streamlined if they're going to command prices more commensurate with addresses a few miles eastward—or if they're going to attract the destination diners that have kept Amelia's afloat. Read the full review >>

Mike Sula

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Price: $$$
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