Barbecue across from the City North 14 movie theater.

Our Review

With its outdoor dining area and friendly waitstaff, Fat Willy's, on Western across from the City North 14, is a nice place for a pre- or postmovie nosh. But the ribs have a slightly ashy taste, though thankfully they're not quite fall-off-the-bone mushy. After being caked with dry rub and cooking in a rotisserie that's short on the smoke, slabs are held until ordered. In fact on one visit a cook told me that his job was to sear grill marks on the meat, an approach that in Texas is referred to as "all hat and no cattle." The barbecue sauce, while not overly sweet, is on the bland side. Much care and attention are paid to the sides, which are made from scratch. There's chili topped with cheese, sour cream, and smoked jalapeno salsa and a mac 'n' cheese made with Gruyere, fontina, Parmesan, and cheddar; desserts might include a fresh fruit or chocolate pecan-pie. Fries are tasty, and the house-dipped corn dogs are a popular item.

Gary Wiviott

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Price: $$
Payment Type: MasterCard, Visa

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