Fahlstrom's Fresh Fish Market | Lakeview | Seafood | Restaurant
click to enlarge Fahlstrom's Fresh Fish Market

Fahlstrom's Fresh Fish Market

Andrea Bauer

A retail seafood market in Lakeview from the founder of Glenn's Diner, Glenn Fahlstrom.

Our Review

The namesake here is Glenn Fahlstrom. He founded Glenn's Diner in 2005 and then was booted from the Ravenswood seafood restaurant after a protracted legal battle with one of his partners two years ago. Fahlstrom's new spot comprises a retail fish market, equipped with a conveyor-belt oven, for toasted sandwiches to go, that can produce a pretty impressive smoked-sturgeon club. But it pains me to report that nearly all the seafood I tasted was prepared with a disregard for its integrity. Mostly it was overcooked. It happened with a large cracker-crusted panfried grouper, a plate of New Orleans-style barbecue shrimp, grilled sturgeon, and other dishes. Overcooking isn't the only problem. Hefty shrimp tacos are served on heavy, unwarmed flour tortillas. Underfried calamari is served with a tepid, thick, sweet Thai-style peanut sauce. New England clam chowder is so gluey with flour you could stand a spoon up in it. Minor conceptual flaws tend to disrupt the enjoyment of seafood that's actually prepared well. There was a smoky trout salad with a fistful of Ritz Crackers that seemed as if they'd been dumped unceremoniously on the plate. A fresh, beautiful salad of sweet fat shrimp, smoked trout, king crab, and mussels is served with watery, tasteless out-of-season tomatoes. A buttery roll stuffed with excellent king crabmeat is heaped with an overload of mayo-drenched coleslaw. I was surprised to find that the very best things I ate at Fahlstrom's didn't come from the ocean: a toasty Vienna Beef Reuben amped by a schmear of chicken liver, the occasionally crispy latkes, and the buttery Texas toast served as a side.

Mike Sula

Features: , , , , , , , ,

Price: $$
Payment Type: AmEx, Discover, Mastercard, Visa

Map

Related Stories

Reviews/comments

Subscribe to this thread:

Add a review


Roll over stars and click to rate.

Nearby