Eve | Gold Coast/Mag Mile/Streeterville | Contemporary/Regional, Restaurant | Restaurant
This location has been flagged as "Closed".
CLOSED. Contemporary American restaurant from chef Troy Graves (Tallulah).

Our Review

When it opened I thought of Tallulah—Troy Graves’s comeback from Meritage—as a relative bright spot on Lincoln Square’s increasingly mediocre restaurant row. Now with Eve it seems he’s bring­ing the same relief to the Viagra Triangle. Touted as a more refined version of Tallulah, now closed, Eve is accordingly pricier and similarly congested--a condition slightly ameliorated by decorative smoke and mirrors, or rather sky blue paneling and mirrors. The food reflects the chef’s predilections for serious meat (short ribs, suckling pig, foie gras) as well as his generosity in portioning. In some cases that’s overgenerous, particularly in the appetizers and early courses such as a rich and heavy yet sweetly acidic roasted turnip puree that’s more than enough by half. A grilled lobster sausage sprawls across the plate atop cold chanterelles and hot bacon dice, garnished with a large branch of thyme someone forgot to string with Christmas lights. For all Graves's intriguing combinations--mussels in ice wine, foie gras with grilled blood orange and snap pea salad, pomegranate-glazed prawns with toasted chestnut panna cotta--he has a tendency to sabotage himself: Some attractive-sounding sheep’s milk ricotta dumplings turned out to be dense, dry concussion grenades mining an otherwise enjoyable lamb ragout with Swiss chard. Still, there’s enough to like here to consider Eve a relatively progressive provocation to the neighborhood’s Axis of Mediocrity.

Mike Sula

Features: , , , , , , ,

Price: $$$
Payment Type: American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa


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