Emperor's Choice | Chinatown | Chinese, Asian | Restaurant
White-tablecloth Chinatown spot with a wide, sometimes adventurous menu and standout seafood.

Our Review

One of the spiffier restaurants on the Chinatown strip, Emperor's Choice brings to mind Calvin Trillin's inverse ambience theory of Chinese restaurants; thankfully, it's the exception that proves the rule. Familiar classics are solid here: crisp, meat-filled pot stickers, a lively orange beef with good-quality bone-in meat, a wonton soup vibrant with a rich stock and shrimp-filled dumplings. Seafood is a particular strength, especially plump salt-and-pepper shrimp, Cantonese shell-on lobster, clams with black bean sauce, and whole fish preparations plus a rotating list of specials such as salt-and-pepper soft-shell crab and delicate fresh scallops served on the half shell. Szechuan string beans and mildly spicy Shanghai noodles make for a smooth segue to the more adventurous menu items such as jellyfish and succulent pork belly with preserved greens. Here you dine on white linen, and you can have a Maker's Mark with that jellyfish and pork belly.

Gary Wiviott

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Price: $$
Payment Type: American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa

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