Taqueria with late-night hours and late-night-appropriate eats.

Our Review

This particular El Gallo Bravo, which appears to be part of the local taqueria minichain, is open 24 hours—or at least until 5 AM—and on the weekends hosts a high-decibel karaoke party. But it may be best known for catering to those eating under the influence, offering a few unusual specialties uniquely suited to such occasions: massive California burritos (though the one I ordered had no french fries inside, tacos huerfanos ("orphans"), that is, greasy corn tortillas smeared with refried beans, layered with a thin sheet of fried pork, and topped with cheese. Best of all may be the platillo nopal loca, aka "crazy cactus plate," a whole, sliced, fried cactus paddle reaching over a cheesy mess of grilled beef, hot dog quarters, peppers, onions, and mushrooms. Order the platillo volcan and you'll get the identical mess but for the cactus paddle, though I can't imagine why you wouldn't want the vitamin B6-rich succulent on your plate when you're fortifying yourself against a nasty crudo, hangover. On the weekends there's that classic cure for such, menudo—"Menudo para el crudo", as they say. Read more >>

Mike Sula

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Price: $

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