Edzo's Burger Shop | Evanston | Burgers, American | Restaurant
Eddie Lakin

Eddie Lakin

Eric Futran

Eddie Lakin's classic burgers, hand-cut fries, and shakes.

Our Review

My first thought was: Edzo's Burger Shop is to burgers as Hot Doug's is to encased meat. And in fact Eddie Lakin purposely patterned his Evanston burger hut after Doug Sohn's renowned hot dog stand in certain respects—his cruelly limited hours, for example. But where Sohn is an innovator, Lakin's genius is in going back to the basics. His hamburger, ground daily and unmistakably fresh, is available in two forms: a thin griddled patty or a nice, fat charburger. The former's best in the form of a double; the latter's irresistible cooked medium rare. It's not all about the beef, though: a Maxwell Street-style Polish on a poppy-seed bun arrives piled with grilled onions and streaked with yellow mustard; its char is transcendent. Lakin, a chef who's worked at the likes of Tru and Nacional 27, did go hog wild with his hand-cut fries, which are available in six flavors, from truffle to garlic-parsley to "angry," topped with jalapeños, sriracha, giardiniera, and buffalo sauce. But best of all might be the "old fries," crispy brown remnants perfect as a complement to Lakin's soft, decadent cheese fries (made with Merkts sharp cheddar spread). And don’t skimp when it comes to the "$5 shake"—just $4—try the chocolate-banana number or a Nutella malt, topped with whipped cream and a cherry. My only complaint, ever, was those hours—and now the Evanston Edzo's, like the Lincoln Park location, is open for dinner.

Kate Schmidt

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Price: $
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