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Somalian restaurant authentic in every way.

Our Review

East African Restaurant could have been transported from a dusty crossroads in Somalia. Flies crawled across the menu board. "Do you have kingfish?" I asked the cook, the only other guy in the joint. "Kingfish is done. Come at noon," he said. "What about goat?" "That’s gone." "What do you have?" Twenty minutes of CNN later, the cook brought me a cracked platter of beef glaya—strips of steak with peppers, onions, and tomatoes—and a side dish of spaghetti. I stared at the plate. "You want a fork?" the cook asked. I did, and a napkin too. The cook pointed at a roll of paper towels on the counter. But he was kind enough to wash a bread knife for me so I could cut my meat, and he brought out a pitcher of mango juice. East African's main clientele is cabdrivers, so it has a round-the-clock menu: for breakfast, omelets and liver with bread; for lunch, kingfish and goat meat; for dinner, beef glaya and goat stew with injera.

Edward McClelland

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Price: $

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