drutang | Chicago Reader

Recent Reviews

This "cocina latina," which opened recently near the Sheridan "L" Station, is a welcome addition to the neighborhood. It is currently BYOB, and most tables take advantage. Service is extremely friendly, although a little forgetful at times. I've been there twice now, and have not been dissapointed. However, the food was remarkably better on the first visit. Both times, my girlfriend and I have split the Caldo de Elote, a corn cream soup. The first time, it was a nice soup with a touch of cream to add silkiness, with lots of corn kernels and roasted red pepper. The second time, the soup was almost entirely lacking
creaminess, and did not come with the nicely grilled bread that accompanied the first bowl. Entrees have all been very good and beautifully presented, and all a bit spicy. Pork tacos nicely accented the flavor of the slow roasted pork, with a lively chile sauce to add earthiness and heat. Braised pork with cactus in chile verde sauce was also outstanding, the cactus being a pleasant addition. Skirt steak enchiladas have been good both visits, but were again better the first time. These are not typical mexican restaurant enchiladas, but are rather four tortillas filled with steak and cheese, folded over and baked with a drizzling of an ancho and guijillo sauce. The first time they came with a cream sauce drizzled over them, which contrasted nicely with the spicy flavors of the chile sauce, giving the dish a good complexity. It was unfortunately missing
the second time, replaced it seems with more of the chile sauce. All entrees are served with a side plate of rice and changing vegetable -- corn one night, potato wedges the other. Finally, desert was very good, although unlike the entrees the presentation was lacking. We tried the plantains with dulce de leche ice cream. The plantains were nicely carmelized, but were just thrown around a scoop of ice cream in a plain white bowl. All in all, the restaurant is very good, and its attempts at a more upscale pan-Latin menu have been fairly successful so far.

Posted by Andrew Rodriguez on 02/15/2004 at 1:42 PM

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