Dough Boys | University Village/Little Italy | Pizza | Restaurant
This location has been flagged as "Closed".
CLOSED. Pizza place from Scott Harris (Francesca's) and Jimmy Bannos Sr. (Heaven on Seven).

Our Review

The latest collaboration between restaurateurs Jimmy Bannos Jr. and Scott Harris is a twofer, with a hallway connecting the upscale Salatino's to this below-ground pizza joint with the usual trappings: big tomato cans as centerpieces, red-checkered cloth (plastic, actually) on the tables, and a big, handsome oven along the back wall of the open kitchen. Sadly, the menu doesn't suggest any toppings combinations (though a few specials are posted on the walls)—they're a la carte, with prices ranging from $2 per for a small pie to $5 apiece for the three-foot-long, rectangular "metro." Two salads would've benefited from some good old-fashioned flavor; a watery red-wine vinaigrette did little to compensate for boring romaine and pink, grainy tomatoes. As we waited for our pizza, I found myself picking through the remnants of the antipasto salad for far-too-scarce wisps of spicy arugula, pieces of Genoa salami, and little slices of a fine, sharp provolone. The red sauce on our stuffed pizza, which we filled with spinach, olives, roasted peppers, and fresh basil and garlic (those last two are free), was rich and packed a nice vinegary punch, though it too lacked seasoning. And the special meatball-and-giardiniera pizza, served on a milquetoast crust neither thick nor thin, neither chewy nor crispy, was more of the same: pretty much fine, though the meatballs were mushy and the house-made giardiniera not nearly as spicy as it might've been. But this restraint, ill-advised on the rest of the menu, finally paid off in a dessert of creamy tiramisu (brought over from Salatino's): neither too heavy nor too sweet, it was the best part of the meal.

Sam Worley

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