Double Li is named for chef-owners Ben Li and Wan Cai Li, but for fans of Szechuan cuisine it also signifies that we've doubled our options for mouth-tingling, authentically aggressive specialties from the region. Here are Szechuan dumplings, delectably cartilaginous pig's ear, and--my favorite Double Li starter--Szechuan tripe with finely minced celery as a textural counterpoint. Fish in chile broth is terrific, the fillet meltingly tender and the chile oil hot enough to start one thinking of the firehouse a few doors east. Or try the intense lamb hot pot seasoned with cumin, a one-two punch of fragrance and flavor. Crisp-edged dry chile chicken is engaging, but it's black pepper-garlic beef that's become a signature dish. Nonspicy options include Pocket Tofu, ethereally light quenelles of tofu, ground chicken, and whipped egg white, plus an array of Chinese-American standards. To get the authentic stuff ask for the translated Szechuan menu.
Price: $$
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