Devon Seafood Grill | Near North | Seafood, Steaks/Lobster | Restaurant
Chain offering pricey prime steaks and seafood. Lunch is available only at the second-floor Oyster Bar, a more casual space with a more affordable menu.

Our Review

Though it isn’t immediately evident, Devon Seafood Grill is one of seven variously named links in a national “upscale casual seafood concept” operated by Houlihan’s Inc. All the available boilerplate suggests these are elegant spots serving only fresh, simply prepared, “regional” seafood to “educated” diners, but it won’t take long for those to smell something fishy. The impulse to get destructively cute seems to have overtaken the menu designers at corporate, though maybe it says something about my own self-destructive tendencies that I had to order the "Char Crusted® Yellowfin Tuna," two nice chunks of raw tuna plastered with the venerable Chicago-born barbecue rub. It might well have been Cheeto dust. Similar product placement abounds: Port Judith Calamari came with a miniature sized Tabasco® bottle and chocolate cake is accompanied by hazelnut Pirouline®. In defiance of the commitment to simple preparations, many of the dishes were treated with some thick, complicated, creamy sauce or similar distraction—that Char Crusted tuna was driven over a cliff by a puddle of foyot sauce; seared scallops with a mushy lobster risotto fairly swam in a thick mustard concoction. A warning to those "educated" diners: stay away.

Mike Sula

Features: , , , , , , , ,

Price: $$$$
Payment Type: American Express, Diners Club, Discover, MasterCard, Visa


Reviews/comments (5)
3.5 out of 5

Showing 1-5 of 5

Add a review

Subscribe to this thread:
Showing 1-5 of 5

Add a review

Roll over stars and click to rate.



Become a Friend