De Quay | Lincoln Park | Global/Fusion/Eclectic | Restaurant
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Andrea Bauer

Chef-owner David de Quay draws from his childhood summers in the Netherlands and the flavors of southeast Asia for this authentic bruin cafe.

Our Review

Chef-owner David de Quay, who previously labored in relative obscurity at the Hinsdale Golf Club (and Rhapsody and Gordon), has emerged with a place of his own, a restaurant that evokes the childhood summers he spent in the Netherlands with a food-forward grandmother while seamlessly incorporating a considerable southeast-Asian influence. De Quay makes both Dutch and Indonesian cuisines easy to get a handle on. His menu tilts slightly toward northern Europe with things like panfried black-pepper dumplings filled with hot, gooey Gouda, ribbons of genever-marinated gravlax, and a crock of cauliflower cream soup so thick you could plug a dike with it. His purest expression of Dutch food is a pork chop entree accompanied by a length of smoky, bolognalike rookworst, Gouda mashed potatoes, fried kale, braised savoy cabbage, and mustard. By the same token, the most overtly Indonesian thing on the menu is nasi goreng, the archipelago's national dish. Apart from those two examples, almost everything else on de Quay's menu is either an overt or subdued combination of the two cuisines. The fusion is likable and unforced.

Mike Sula

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Price: $$$
Payment Type: AmEx, Discover, Mastercard, Visa

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