A bustling barstaurant isn't my idea of the best place to savor sophisticated contemporary cuisine, but Cuna, the first nightlife venture from local businessman Paolo Acuna, has a friendly neighborhood vibe, thanks in part to the unpretentious staff. Naturally there's a big beverage program, with beers like Affligem and Half Acre Over Ale on tap, 17 wines by the glass or bottle, and cocktails ranging from a classic old-fashioned to seasonal creations like the Mark's Iced Tea, a potent blend of Maker's Mark, pomegranate liqueur, ginger ale, lemon juice, and bitters. But the real draw for foodies is the work of consulting chef Kendal Duque, formerly of Sepia. If you ate there you'll recognize his flatbreads, offered here with toppings like bacon, pear, and blue cheese or sausage, grapes, goat cheese, and Fontina. There are also seasonal small plates, "big bites," and homey desserts.
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