Craft Pizza | Wicker Park/Bucktown | Pizza | Restaurant
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Mike Sula

Artisanal pizza in a counter-serve space.

Our Review

The Devil in the White City really needs no wicked title. It jumps out among the 11 house pies, fangs bared, claws out. Essentially a spicy version of the house white pizza, it layers spicy capicola, hot cherry peppers, peperoncini, and red onions on a garlicky three-cheese understory of mozzarella, pecorino romano, and grana padano. The toppings make a nice counterpoint to the milder base, and it's a fine example of the generally successful congruity of topping and crust at this counter-service sibling restaurant to Lakeview's Pizzeria Serio. But unlike Serio's Neapolitan style, Craft pushes a thicker thin-crust. There's no wood-burning oven here, but the pies still have an evenly crisp undercarriage supporting a moderately doughier upper crust that can stand up to most combinations. There's no need to commit to a whole pie between the hours of 5 and 6:30 PM (11 AM-4 PM on weekends), when individual slices are sold, and if you're eating in there are a couple perfunctory salads and an antipasti plate.

Mike Sula

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Price: $$
Payment Type: MasterCard, Visa, Amex, Discover

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