Ceviche Peruvian Seafood & Steakhouse | Logan Square | Seafood, Latin American, South American | Restaurant
click to enlarge Ceviche

Ceviche

Mike Sula

Peruvian cuisine from the team behind Ay Ay Picante.

Our Review

At this new Peruvian restaurant from the folks behind the well-liked Ay Ay Picante, the actual menus from Ay Ay Picante itself are employed. The ceviche mixto is said to be composed of a "variety of seafood and tilapia," as if the proprietors recognize that tofu with fins, as the Houston Chronicle once put it, doesn't really count as seafood. But that's why tilapia is an ideal species for ceviche, as it soaks in all that salivatory leche de tigre—sharp lime and fruity, stinging rocoto pepper, an almost creamy, pink-tinged elixir that transforms the fillet into firm, nearly chewy fish flesh. The citrusy marinade does a pretty good job on the fat shrimp, calamari, and strips of sweet red onion too. I don't know what it is about the spinach fettuccine in basil pesto in the classic tallarines verdes con bistec that appeals to me, but I'm sure it has something to do with the color combination. For all the depth and breadth of its menu, Ay Ay Picante doesn't have rotisserie chicken, but it's served on weekends at Ceviche with fried yucca that’s perfectly light and crispy. A pair of grilled salmon and shrimp kebabs slathered in a tomato based "salsa madre" is a generous entree at $19, though perhaps not the most interesting item on a huge menu of classics including everything from a number of the Peruvian-Chinese-style fried rices to grilled anticuchos to giant bowls of seafood soup and eight other varieties of ceviche and seafood cocktails, all augmented with the typical Andean starchy roots and grains. It's BYOB for now.

Mike Sula

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Price: $$
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