Caoba | Wicker Park/Bucktown | Mexican/Southwestern, Seafood | Restaurant
This location has been flagged as "Closed".
CLOSED. Mexican restaurant specializing in seafood and parilladas, mixed grills.

Our Review

Caoba slipped into the former Pacific Cafe space, with a barely audible shout-out (on the tortilla baskets) to the Mexican state of San Luis Potosi. Its specialty is tabletop parilladas, in this instance perforated molded metal boxes filled with burning hardwood charcoal, the vehicle for sizzling meats and vegetables. My first time I plowed into the seafood and meat versions with abandon, but quickly ran out of gas, wondering why I was exerting myself for such powerfully unspecial meat. The scallops, squid, and head-on langoustines all bore textural traces of freezer abuse compounded by overcooking, and the meats, chicken, chorizo, skirt steak, and excessively glazed orangey baby back ribs suffered similarly. About the only thing redeeming these were the piles of juicy sweet peppers and onions roasted in the juices. A ceviche appetizer of shredded tilapia settled to the bottom of a goblet of sweet citrusy tomato juice, and a coctel de camaron was chock-full of shrimp, though they were small and chewy. Nice house-fried tortillas chips with a tangy sweet salsa introduced a menu with another nod to the hometown in enchiladas potosinas. Despite it all, the flat-screen TVs and long fauxdobe walls that open onto the Wicker Park parade may be all the place needs to survive on this turf.

Mike Sula

Features: , , , , , , ,

Price: $$
Payment Type: American Express, MasterCard, Visa

Map

Reviews/comments

Subscribe to this thread:

Add a review


Roll over stars and click to rate.

Nearby

Friends

Become a Friend