The most unfortunate name, Browntrout (see urbandictionary.com), in fact commemorates a simply prepared rod-and-reel-caught fish that sustained chef Sean Sanders and his wife while they honeymooned in remote New Zealand. Sanders, a Bin 36 vet, doesn't have that particular species on his menu, but his signature golden trout is done "New Zealand style," a crispy crushed-walnut armor protecting the luscious fillet, pan-seared in brown butter and served with fresh peas and mint. It's an incredibly satisfying piece of fish, and emblematic of nearly everything I've sampled on his simple and easily navigable menu, which you can expect to change with some frequency. We're at a point where claims about the locality and seasonality of one's menu are so common that a place like Browntrout runs the risk of getting lost in the stream. It would be a shame to let that happen to the real thing.
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