Brand BBQ Market | Logan Square | Barbecue/Ribs | Restaurant
This location has been flagged as "Closed".
Barbecue joint featuring the classics--ribs, pulled pork, brisket--as well as burnt ends, pulled duck, pork belly confit, and smoked Gouda mac 'n' cheese.

Our Review

Brand BBQ is the embodiment of the new-style urban barbecue joint, with a chef who's a graduate of culinary school, a spiffy interior with art on the walls, and not an anthropomorphic pig in sight. The formal training of pit mistress Sweet Charity Smith--a name perfectly suited to barbecue or, for that matter, "adult ballet"--shines on the cheffier portions of the menu. The BrandCheezie is a flabbergastingly delicious smoked venison sausage stuffed with Gorgonzola, wrapped in bacon drizzled with brandy-cherry barbecue sauce, and served resting on a bed of microgreens and deeply caramelized onions. Smoked pulled duck is moist and rich, the hints of porcini mushroom in the brandy-cherry barbecue sauce highlighting the earthy flavors of the duck. Drop-dead-tender smoked pork belly confit is offered as stand-alone with bourbon-mustard barbecue sauce or--even more decadent--on a bun with a fried egg and maple mayo. Slow-smoked chicken was the highlight of the traditional barbecue items, a Caribbean jerk barbecue sauce and smoky, spicy chipotle sauce well complementing the moist, tender bird. Pulled pork was an odd combination of dry and mushy with little smoke flavor; barbecue sauce and a judicious application of slaw helped, but at present I’d recommend the smoked tofu over the pulled pork--which alone speaks volumes. Initially dull flavored with a slightly watery finish, smoked brisket improved over multiple visits, though the smoke flavor is faint at best. Baby-back ribs, also a work in progress, had little smoke flavor and a tacky/gummy mouthfeel to the rub, but the meat texture was good. Burnt ends--actually more brisket "lardon"--provide a tasty accent to creamy mac 'n' cheese and give bacon a run for its money on the eight-ounce burnt-end burger topped with smoked Gouda. Sides include tangy vinegar slaw, bourbon-creamed corn, crispy fries, and surprisingly tasty spicy broccoli studded with slow-roasted garlic cloves. To top it off there are house-made ice creams in flavors like strawberry-basil and bourbon-smoked candied pecans with dark chocolate chunks; the pecans are also available by the bag. What with the friendly, informed service, reasonable prices, and comfortable space, there's a lot to like about Brand, even if it’s not all about the 'cue.

Gary Wiviott

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Price: $
Payment Type: MasterCard, Visa

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