Boeufhaus | Ukrainian Village/East Village | Steaks/Lobster, French, German/Austrian | Restaurant
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Laurie Peacock

Unpretentious French-German brasserie in an old Polish deli.

Our Review

You have to appreciate the quiet confidence with which chefs Brian Ahern and Jamie Finnegan have opened this unpretentious spot in a former Polish deli. It's literally and conceptually so far removed from downtown's expense-account feedlots you'll sooner find yourself sitting among native Ukrainian Villagers than conventioneers. At the core of their tight but eclectic menu are five steaks, topping out with a 22-ounce, 55-day dry-aged rib eye. These are easily as good as—and in most cases better than—anything you can find in the city's center. Appetizers for the most part stray from the meatier tendencies of the menu to provide a good amount of balance—like a creamy stracciatella loaded with smoked onion, a surprisingly light polenta topped with a judicious dose of minced escargots, and a dish of tiny, tender chickpea-flour cavatelli tossed with house-made merguez sausage and fried chickpeas in a vibrant and cheesy paprika-spiked sauce. Overall Boeufhaus is the kind of place I don't run across often enough, and one that I'm happy to say is the sort of restaurant every neighborhood deserves.

Mike Sula

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Price: $$$$$
Payment Type: AmEx, Discover, Mastercard, Visa

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