Chef Paul Fehribach's airy, minimalist dining room is distinguished by floor-to-ceiling windows and wrought-iron chandeliers, and like the decor, the menu gives a little wave to the French Quarter. The cocktail list is full of daiquiris, hurricanes, and nicely balanced Sazeracs—including one with absinthe—and the menu includes New Orleans fare like crawfish-boudin fritters and a rich and smoky gumbo ya-ya with chicken, pork, andouille, and Arkansas rice. Fehribach and his staff go whole hog, offering house-made pickles and relished, house-butchered meat down to the pork skins, and a wide selection of house-made charcuterie. At lunch there's fried chicken and traditional sides including biscuits and corn bread. In all, Big Jones fuses the accoutrements of upscale dining with the soul of country cooking, down to the seasonal ingredients and snout-to-tail thrift.
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The floor-to-ceiling windows and wrought-iron chandeliers give a little wave to the French Quarter, as does the cocktail list, full of daiquiris, hurricanes, and nicely balanced Sazeracs—including one with absinthe. —Martha Bayne
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