Best Refuge in River North, Casual | Best of Chicago 2013 | Food & Drink | Chicago Reader

Best Refuge in River North, Casual 

Chilled tofu, as creamy as a custard, embedded with salmon roe and tiny mushrooms

Chilled tofu, as creamy as a custard, embedded with salmon roe and tiny mushrooms

Andrea Bauer

Sumi Robata Bar

There's nothing more primeval than impaling meat on a stick and cooking it over fire, and with the proliferation of gimmicky Japanese-style robata joints in River North, along with the increasing idiocracy of the general area, it's easy to imagine the neighborhood as a portal to prehistoric times. That's until you step into the clean, blond corridor of Sumi, where chef Gene Kato stands serenely before two binchotan-fueled grills, calmly basting and turning sizzling morsels of chicken butt, beef heart, and pork jowl. One bite of beef tongue followed by a custardy mouthful of cold silky tofu and you'll see that his cooking is as civilized as it gets.

Agenda Teaser

Performing Arts
Henchpeople Jarvis Square Theater
July 09
Performing Arts
Sea Change BRNDHAUS PL-ZEN
July 15

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