Bar Takito | West Loop/Fulton Market | Latin American, Mexican/Southwestern | Restaurant
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Bar Takito

Andrea Bauer

David Dworshak's West Loop spin-off of Takito Kitchen

Our Review

The tacos at David Dworshak's West Loop spin-off of Takito Kitchen are almost a letdown compared to the rest of the menu, which wanders more widely around Mexico—mixiotes from Mexico City, barbacoa from the Caribbean coast, and caldo de mariscos, a seafood soup from Veracruz on the Gulf of Mexico—and then leaves altogether, venturing down to South America. There are arepas from Colombia, ceviches from Peru, seafood grilled a la plancha from Argentina, and, at the bar, caiparinhas from Brazil. But Dworshak and Adam Weber, who devised the cocktails, add their own twists. The polenta, for instance, is creamy, with sweet bits of corn and salty cheese, but Dworshak's also mixed in surprising bits of mildly pungent kimchi. The wild salmon ceviche comes with long, curly, lightly salted plantain chips, which you can use to scoop up the broth. And the aforementioned caiparinha is made with brown sugar instead of white and rum infused with a subtle flavor of pistachio, which adds some complexity that keeps the sweetness from being overwhelming. Maybe the most surprising dish is the popcorn-butterscotch mousse dessert. At Bar Takito, you're supposed to order many plates at once to share, but the dishes emerge from the kitchen with excruciating slowness. The octopus a la plancha, when it finally does arrive, though, is worth waiting for. The tentacles are crisp and caramelized outside, firm without being rubbery inside. The lamb barbacoa is worth the wait too. It's served pulled from the bone, tender and sweet, enhanced by pistachios and balanced by black garlic, basil, and queso fresco. The food is wonderful, but unless you have the power to get the kitchen to expedite your order, it's not a place to go when you're hungry. Read the full review >>

Aimee Levitt

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Price: $$$
Payment Type: AmEx, Discover, Mastercard, Visa

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