Bar Ombra | Andersonville | Italian, Wine Bar | Restaurant
barombra.jpg
Italian wine bar specializing in cicchetti, snacks.

Our Review

A Venetian-style bar from Marty Fosse and Tim Rasmussen, owners of the adjoining Acre, Ombra's compressed dining room is dominated by the bar up front, a long glass-fronted food counter that runs back toward the kitchen, and two rows of high-backed wooden booths. But though claustrophobes may wish to avoid this environment, it seems perfectly suitable for clandestine planning sessions among members of the Red Brigade. The menu focuses on cicchetti, little bar snacks, analogous to Spanish tapas, that are the trade in Venetian bars. The selection here is more regional than strictly northern, and big enough to baffle, though helpfully, much of it is arrayed on platters behind glass, allowing pointing rather than puzzling over the menu. I was most impressed by what came directly from the kitchen: the triangular crustless tea sandwiches (tramezzini), soft white bread bedded with whipped mortadella or shrimp in peppery horseradish aioli; sweet-and-sour marinated fried sardines (pesce in saor); arancini, whose brittle golden crusts breaks over creamy pitch-black squid ink rice; thin slices of cold beef tongue in salsa verde; artichoke hearts with salty aioli, flash-fried and flowering; and on and on. You could survive for days here holed up in a booth, exploring offerings extending to salumi and cheese, panini and bruschetta, fried smelts and cheese croquettes, and raw and cured bits. Read the full review >>

Mike Sula

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Bar Details

A Venetian-style bar from Marty Fosse and Tim Rasmussen, owners of the adjoining Acre, Ombra's compressed dining room is dominated by the bar up front, a long glass-fronted food counter that runs back toward the kitchen, and two rows of high-backed wooden booths. The menu focuses on cicchetti, little bar snacks, analogous to Spanish tapas, that are the trade in Venetian bars. The selection here is more regional than strictly northern, and big enough to baffle, though helpfully, much of it is arrayed on platters behind glass. The regional, mostly northern Italian wine list is augmented by some nice cocktails: both the negroni, served on the rocks, and the prosecco-and-Aperol Venetian Spritz balance the sweet and bitter in typical Italian style. Speaking of bitter, finish off with a small glass of Amaro Dell Erbolista, if you're keen to taste amaro's answer to Malort. —Mike Sula

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