Appellation | Andersonville | Wine Bar, Italian, Bar/Lounge, Must-Visit Bar | Bar
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Andrew Nawrocki

The cheese-focused wine bar adjunct to the Pastoral outpost in Andersonville

Our Review

Appellation is dedicated to the idea of incorporating coagulated milk into nearly every dish on the menu. The chef responsible for that commitment is Jesse Williams, formerly of the late Birchwood Kitchen, Lula, Floriole, and Uncommon Ground, and a former cheesemonger for Pastoral itself, experience well suited for, say, choosing the right chevre to bake in pumpkin-tomato sauce (Prairie Fruits Farm and Creamery) or what slice to lay on your patty melt (nutty Swiss Herrgard). Counterintuitively, the problem I found with much of the menu was that these intriguing cheeses are often so subdued in execution that little can be said about their own individual character or how they enhance or complement the whole dish. In some cases they're hardly evident at all. Probably the best way to approach the menu at the moment is via the cheese plates, which make use of the formidable stock the restaurant has on hand. Set up one of those with a charcuterie plate and a couple bottles of the almost 200 wines—each marked up only $20 over the retail price in the store, and most made by small, sustainable vintners—and the little bar makes a nice place to recharge after a serious buying session at the best cheese shop in town. Read the full review >>

Mike Sula

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Bar Details

Probably the best way to approach the menu at Pastoral’s restaurant adjunct to its Andersonville cheese shop is via the cheese plates, which make use of the formidable stock the restaurant has on hand. Set up one of those with a charcuterie plate and a couple bottles of the almost 200 wines—each marked up only $20 over the retail price in the store, and most made by small, sustainable vintners—and the little bar makes a nice place to recharge after a serious buying session at the best cheese shop in town. —Mike Sula

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