Andy's Thai Kitchen | Lakeview | Thai, Asian | Restaurant
Andy Aroonrasameruang, formerly of TAC Quick, brings his menu—including his challenging Thai dishes—to a new location.

Our Review

Andy Aroonrasameruang made a mark with his explosively flavorful cooking at Wrigleyville's TAC Quick, attracting intrepid non-Thai eaters with authentic dishes like fish maw salad, crispy fish guts tossed with shrimp, cashews, cilantro, and mint in a sweet-hot dressing. Many other old favorites have followed him to this new venture: deep, rich, beefy bowls of boat noodles; pad prik khing, crispy, gnarly shreds of pork belly stir-fried with long beans and raw jalapeño; crispy ong choy, Chinese water spinach tempura-battered and deep-fried, served with shrimp and minced chicken. And here he's intent on rewarding fans further, adding preserved duck eggs topped with minced chicken and fried basil leaves, an omelet cooked with the sulfurous herb cha om and bathed in sour curry, and a raw blue crab salad (yum poo ma), the critters hacked into pieces and tossed with minced raw garlic, Chinese celery, cilantro, and dried shrimp. ATK also offers a number of specialties expressing the Chinese influence on Thai food, like a pair of red-braised pork dishes—tofu and pork belly with star anise, and pork hock with Chinese broccoli—and the red, tomato-based soup yen ta fo, brimming with fishy bits and blocks of congealed pork blood. But lest that intimidate, ATK, like TAC, is an easy place for non-Thais to navigate, and sure enough, you'll see tables of diners hunkered over their individual servings of pad thai, studiously ignoring the more sublime delights all over the five-page menu. Read the full review >>

Mike Sula

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