Serene Thai eatery owned by a veteran of Arun's.

Our Review

If Arun Sampanthavivat's posh restaurant doesn't fit your budget, try this serene Thai eatery owned by chef Rangsan Sutcharit, a nine-year veteran of Arun's. The room is simple, but the menu, elegant plating, and painstakingly artistic garnishes are hard to beat at these prices—most entrees are under $10, and seafood dishes top out at around $16. Fluffy chive dumplings are light as a cloud and served with a black soy dipping sauce redolent of molasses. The crab rolls are also intriguing: cylinders of ground crabmeat and chicken are rolled in tofu skin, briefly fried, then cut on the bias into one-inch-thick slices and set off by a sweet but piquant apricot honey sauce. Soup and noodle dishes are tasty, especially the house noodles—a large serving of delicate homemade spinach noodles with shrimp, crab, and bean sprouts tossed in a ground-chile-and-tamarind sauce. An entree not to be missed is the beef panang curry; while the beef was sliced a bit thin, resulting in somewhat chewy pieces, the satiny sauce was otherworldly.

Laura Levy Shatkin

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