Accanto | Logan Square | Italian | Restaurant
This location has been flagged as "Closed".
CLOSED. High-end Italian in a contemporary space; the chef is Domenico Acampora, a native of Milan.

Our Review

Accanto shares a building and an owner with Lucky Vito's Pizzeria--but that's about all. With a separate entrance and brown-and-beige decor, the little restaurant exudes the fine-dining aesthetic of another era: polished tables set with look-of-leather runners, shiny silver show plates, and textured-gold hardcover menus. For most of our visit we were the only customers, and the server was such a pro that he rushed off to filter and decant our BYO wine when the cork started to crumble, then used a folded napkin to prevent splashes as he poured.(There's also a full wine list.) Chef Domenico Acampura is from Milan, but his small menu--and the big prices--reflect his stints at Cirque 2000 in New York and places like Dubai; it's as continental as Italian, with contemporary twists. In the case of lobster bisque that meant a flavorful but not creamy soup poured tableside over morsels of lobster claw and sweet-tart mango with a flourish of basil chiffonade. Pan-roasted vension chop, one of three hot appetizers, was more like a lunch entree; rare as ordered and rather too mild, it rested between a lightly crisped risotto cake and a crown of spiky wild arugula, set off by an intriguing chocolate and juniper berry reduction. Our main courses were equally composed. Marred only by sour-tasting seared foie gras on top, pan-roasted Atlantic turbot napoleon had moist fish fillets layered with "champignon-chestnut ragout" and Savoy cabbage braised in apple cider. Sicilian saffron and lemon zest risotto topped with firm oven-braised short rib, a refined riff on osso buco, came on a huge black plate painted round with ivory bone-marrow cream, and best of all, the rice was the perfect texture. Tortino di cioccolato, an individual warm chocolate cake with creamy mango ice cream, didn't seem worth the 20-minute wait or the $12 price tag; the martini-glass version of tiramisu had a lot of espresso and no booze, a double bonus since the otherwise top-notch server failed to offer coffee.

Anne Spiselman

Features: , , , ,

Price: $$$$

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