Two years ago, when I talked to John Laffler of Off Color and Jess Straka of Revolution Brewing (then of Metropolitan) as part of the Reader's Chicago Craft Beer Week coverage, the conversation turned to emerging brewers who had business plans robust enough to help them survive increasing competition for shelf space and tap handles.
"Gary Gulley of Panic is taking his time," said Straka. (Gulley's Alarmist Brewing was called Panic until Sacramento's Track 7 intervened—they make a Panic IPA.) "He's a home brewer associated with Square Kegs in Lincoln Square. He interned for Metropolitan last winter."
"Good brewer," interjected Laffler.
"Solid. Has a family. Is putting everything on the line for his dream," said Straka.
It was the first time I'd heard Gulley's name, and what I didn't know then was that he'd already been working on Alarmist for nearly two years. He has a troubleshooting mind—he graduated from Purdue in 1990 with a civil engineering degree—and to build his brewery he's put his plans and processes through uncountable rounds of iteration and revision (what laypersons call "trial and error"). Since October 2011 he's shared candid, detailed reports of his slow but steady progress on the Alarmist blog, where in December 2012 he headlined a post "What's Faster, Me or a Glacier?" Helpfully, he added a photo of a glacier. "Once I kick this guy's ass in the 1,000,000 year hurdle," reads the caption, "I'm going to boil him and make beer."
Tags: Beer and Metal, beer, metal, Alarmist Brewing, Alarmist, Panic Brewing, Gary Gulley, Pantsless, Pantsless Pale Ale, pale ale, Metropolitan Brewing, Doug Hurst, Tracy Hurst, Good Beer Hunting, Michael Kiser, Margaret Laurino, Square Kegs, American Brewers Guild, Electric Wizard, Dopethrone, Vinum Sabbathi, Image, Video
Every so often in Beer and Metal, I review something that's clearly not a craft beer, either because I'm having a snit about an evasive press release from a macrobrewer or because I'm hoping to stumble across a bargain in an unlikely place. (The less said about the Super Brew 15 fiasco, the better.) I've accomplished little in the effort, but it has produced some ridiculous columns.
Lucky Buddha, which immodestly calls itself "Enlightened Beer," has been available in the States since at least 2007, so I'm not writing about it because I think it's novel—rather I figure other people have, like me, walked past it in shops for years and wondered if it's bullshit. And maybe those people want an answer from me, not from some other weirdo on the Internet.
Tags: Beer and Metal, beer, metal, Lucky Buddha, Enlightened Beer, China, Australia, Buddha, lager, pale lager, Asian lager, Enemite, Enmity, Wuyuan, Li Chao, Evilthorn, Image, Video
Earlier this month I got a reminder of just how thoroughly the human brain conditions its sensory input. At an Andersonville restaurant, a friend was served the wrong beer, and it took me three samples at the bar to figure out what was actually in her glass—even though she'd been poured the same thing I'd been drinking not ten minutes before. Because I expected it to be something else, my brain stubbornly insisted that it was.
With that in mind, I figure Sunday's event at the Map Room will provide a serious challenge—even to nerds like me. Called "Beers in the Dark," it asks the bar's patrons to guess what it has on tap.
Tags: Beer and Metal, beer, metal, Map Room, guess, blindfold, Beers in the Dark, Swans, Blackout, Filth, Laura Blasingame, Image, Video
Sometimes I'm a shitty beer writer. It might sound like I'm being too hard on myself, especially if you're a fan (I must have a couple, right?). But how else can you explain that this is my first column on 5 Rabbit?
OK, there are lots of ways to explain it, to be fair—not the least of which is that I'm also the Reader's music editor. Plus I was a little "meh" about 5 Rabbit's initial lineup, with the exception of the passion-fruit wheat beer 5 Lizard (it smells almost exactly like bruised tomato leaves, and I turn out to dig that).
But a lot has changed since 2011, when this south-side brewery launched. I love 5 Rabbit's Yodo con Leche, a strong porter with dulce de leche and coffee. I've had a lot of fun with the summertime Paletas series, especially the one with pink guava in it. And I have to agree with the menu at the Hopleaf, which describes the spiced barleywine Ponche as "otherworldly."
Tags: Beer and Metal, beer, metal, 5 Rabbit, Arroz con Leche, Andres Araya, John J. Hall, Randy Mosher, Adam Stull, Las Chingonas, Ponche, 5 Grass, Behemoth, Cannibal Corpse, Image, Video
I wrote about Chicago botanical brewers Forbidden Root in August 2013, when they made what I'm pretty sure was just their second festival appearance at the Oak Park Micro Brew & Food Review. About four months ago the brewery finally hit retail shelves, shipping 12-ounce four-packs of Sublime Ginger and Shady Character, and a little more than a month later Forbidden Root's namesake beer joined them. The Forbidden Root brewpub, which will occupy the former home of a theater at 1746 W. Chicago, plans to open its doors early this summer (if not in late May).
Last weekend Forbidden Root launched their whimsically named series of single-origin chocolate beers, Divine Mud. The first beer in the series, an imperial stout brewed with cacao from West Africa (mostly Ghana and the Ivory Coast), dried magnolia flowers, and six pounds per barrel of toasted Texas pecans, is called Heavy Petal—which might as well have been a hand-delivered invitation to Beer and Metal.
Tags: Beer and Metal, beer, metal, Forbidden Root, Heavy Petal, Divine Mud, cacao, chocolate, magnolia, pecans, Robert Finkel, 5 Rabbit, Randy Mosher, Terry Kane, Mastery, Valis, Ephemeral Domignostika, Image
If you were going to start a brewery—and don't tell me you haven't thought about it, you beer-column-reading person—how would you get the money? (For rhetorical purposes, I'm assuming you're not independently wealthy.) Would you hit up family and friends? Run a Kickstarter? Beat the bushes for private investors? Grovel for a bank loan? (Good luck with that!) Lots of great breweries—if not most of them—have chosen one or more of those routes.
But maybe you don't want to be accountable to anybody. Maybe, even though you're trying to start a business, you remain stubbornly averse to capitalist whoring and wary of debt. Maybe you'd rather hang on to your day job for as long as possible and rely only on money that comes out of your own pocket—to the point that you'd put heavy brewing equipment on your credit card.
Tags: Beer and Metal, beer, metal, Illuminated Brew Works, Illuminated, Brian Buckman, Matt Shirley, Jason Monk, Arman Mabry, Sam Eaton, 2-Headed Dog, the Black Maw, Hasselhopf, Kallisti, Pazuzu's Pedals, Orange Sunshine, Quenchers, Twisted Spoke, Table Donkey and Stick, DryHop, Une Annee, Tijuana Hercules, Columbines, Buckingham Palace SVU, Electric Wizard, Image, Video
Since reviewing DryHop during its opening week in June 2013, I've drank many a memorable beer there—among them My Mirrors Are Black, a Cuban-style coffee stout with guava; Elektra, on Oktoberfest; Half Stepper, a rye IPA; the South Loop Brewing collaboration Milkstachio, a milk stout with pistachio and cacao nibs; Moustache & a Supernova, a biere de Noel; the Devil Jumped Up!, a Belgian-style IPA; and I, O'Brien of the Black Horsemen, an oatmeal-cookie brown ale. In other words, I've been looking for an opportunity to write about DryHop again.
Tags: Beer and Metal, beer, metal, DryHop, DryHop Brewers, Moritat, Empty Bottle, Chandeliers, Gel Set, High Plus Tight, Shark Meets Hipster, Feeling That Surrounds, Saazquatch, Tart Down for What, Hell With the Lid On, Brant Dubovick, Adrian Vidaurre, Venus Sabay, Venus Laurel, Konstantin Jace, Image
I got to Evanston's Temperance Beer Company a bit late—I didn't manage a column till last May, when their kegs had been turning up in Chicago bars for seven or eight months and they'd just debuted on retail shelves with Gatecrasher English IPA. (I felt a little better, and even a tad prescient, when Gatecrasher won a silver medal at the Great American Beer Festival that summer—I'd given it an immoderately positive review.)
Tags: Beer and Metal, beer, metal, Temperance Beer Company, Temperance, Evanston, Might Meets Right, Gatecrasher, Evenfall, Escapist, Restless Years, Root Down, High West, manhattan, Boulevardier, FOBAB, Hopleaf, Super Stout Sunday, Bourbon County, Spiteful, Image, Video
I haven't written about a Local Option beer in more than a year, but not because they haven't rolled out anything new. The saison Walk ov Shame debuted on draft in November, and a second batch, split between kegs and 500-milliliter bottles, started shipping about a month ago. And a bottled beer is a beer I can review at home. (Another new Option beer, Exorcist!, should be on shelves within the month; in November I said it "might be the hoppiest stout I've ever tasted.")
Tags: Beer and Metal, beer, metal, Local Option, Bierwerker, Walk ov Shame, Voku Hila, Sweet Leif, La Petite Mort, Catalina Wine Mixer, Tony Russomanno, Noah Hopkins, Alexi Front, Guitar Shred Contest, Pipeworks, Doom, Bad Priest, Killing Field, Pirarucu, Image, Video
I wrote 32 Beer and Metal posts in 2014, down from 42 last year, but the Chicago craft community was busier than ever. Though I like to think I made up for the drop in quantity with an increase in quality (and I did break a few stories, in my own way), I definitely overlooked some solid breweries. When I finally meet Clint Bautz from Lake Effect, I'm going to feel like apologizing to the guy.
Tags: Beer and Metal, beer, metal, year in review, best of 2014, favorite, most read, Lagunitas, tap room, Goose Island, Bourbon County, Dark Lord Day, Smylie Brothers, Aquanaut Brewing, Greenstar Brewing, Empirical Brewery, Beermiscuous, FOBAB, Superchrist, Horrendous, Ecdysis, Image