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"I told people I worked the pass at Babbo for three years. It was surprising how easy it was to get in," he says. He kept his eyes open, grabbed every chance he could to work prep, and muscled or bribed his way onto the line. "If I had to call INS on some line cook who got territorial about his station," he says, "I would."D'Angelo's career truly took off when he left restaurant kitchens behind him and began staging an itinerant popup called the Last Supper in a series of eccentric locations in Manhattan, including a bodega and a subway power station.
Before long, suspiciously familiar analogs of some of his dishes began to show up on the menus of fine-dining restaurants all over the country—including Chicago. "Edible menus? Mine. Foie gras lollipops? Mine. That cat who was serving sushi on a naked girl? I did that first—with pasta."Fear of further copying was why Crib was located so far offshore and why you had to take a speedboat to get there. D'Angelo was coy about what he planned to serve on opening night. "If I told you anything I'd have an animal rights naval blockade on my hands," he told Sula.
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