Gaslight Coffee Roasters: coffee, meat, cheese, and stuffed animals | Bleader

Thursday, October 25, 2012

Gaslight Coffee Roasters: coffee, meat, cheese, and stuffed animals

Posted By on 10.25.12 at 03:36 PM

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Gaslights lunch for one
It's become a cliche to invoke hipster cliches in any discussion about Logan Square, but mention the neighborhood with the words "coffee shop" in a tone any more positive than scornful and you have a rhetorical struggle ahead of you. You're already rolling your eyes at the java-stained beards and protectionist noncompete clauses, aren't you. Don't be that way.

Gaslight Coffee Roasters began perfuming the intersection of Milwaukee and Fullerton with the aroma of roasting beans about a month ago in spite of the full force of this collective disdain. The beans are distributed to a number of outlets around town, but they're brewed your way in-house—drip, pour-over, siphon, or espresso—and nobody blinks if your MO involves sugar or cream. On a few occasions I've detected a slight burned note in the coffee, but mostly it's been very good stuff.

There's a minimal but appealing food menu too: a handful of pastries (here you can buy your individual La Boulangerie croissant); a single breakfast option (for one or two, $6, $7), featuring a soft-boiled duck egg, fruit, a strip of lardo, and a baguette; and a single lunch option (for one or two, $8, $15), a sampler plate with house-made pickled vegetables, a rotating selection of cheeses from Marion Street Cheese Market, and charcuterie from Indianapolis's great Smoking Goose (home of the Delaware Fireball). Just today I had a sharp Italian Pecorino, along with a wedge of the Alpine-style raw cow's milk Rupert, from Vermont's Bardwell Farms, which tastes quite a bit like local favorite Pleasant Ridge Reserve, from Uplands Cheese Company in Dodgeville, Wisconsin. This came with small stack of slices of Smoking Goose's stagberry salame, a fermented elk sausage studded with mead-soaked blueberries, so tangy and gamey it scented the whole room with intoxicating funk.

Maybe the best thing about Gaslight is that's there's been no attempt to cram bodies into the bright, airy space: big corner windows and brick and florid papered walls adorned with taxidermied woodland creatures looking down on a single row of two tops, a giant picnic bench, and large horseshoe coffee bar. Plenty of room to breathe and think on problems as meta as writing about a coffee shop in a coffee shop.

Gaslight Coffee Roasters, 2835 N. Milwaukee

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