Thursday, June 28, 2012

Red Door and more in this week's Food & Drink

Posted By on 06.28.12 at 10:06 AM

Korea meets NOLA in a fried-oyster ssam
In this week's Food & Drink, Sam Worley takes the second of two red doors at Troy Graves's new Bucktown gastropub, the Red Door, entering a large enclosed patio that provides a convivial setting for seasonal cocktails and globally inspired pub fare. The kitchen, he finds, has a way with veggies, from simple greens with beets, Wisconsin's Bohemian Blue cheese, and a "killer" buttermilk-dill vinaigrette to the kimchi and pickles that accompany fried oyster ssam with with tasso ham and remoulade. But at the apotheosis is a "perfect lemongrass chicken thigh" with grilled spring onion, mint, and roasted peanuts—an "easy, internationally flavored plate that lands just where it aims to."

In Key Ingredient, Frog N Snail sous chef Ian Rossman, challenged by Nebraska boy Dave Ford with cattails, wrestled with lots of ideas for the marshy plant, only to find himself throwing the stuff out: "I was like, I don't think I want to taste that again." In the end he brined and coated a pork chop with herb mixtures that included cattail, also adding it to a blueberry mustard and a relish with pickled fennel and blueberries. "Aside from the cattail," he said, "it's kind of a classic French dish." Next up is Blair Herridge, the sous chef at Browntrout, working with Bailey's Irish Cream.

Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Comments

Subscribe to this thread:

Add a comment

More by Kate Schmidt

Agenda Teaser

Performing Arts
The Project(s) American Theater Company
July 14
Performing Arts
The Amish Project Oak Park Festival Theatre
July 08

Tabbed Event Search

The Bleader Archive

Popular Stories