In this week's Food & Drink | Bleader

Thursday, January 19, 2012

In this week's Food & Drink

Posted By on 01.19.12 at 10:00 AM

Rock shrimp polpetta and fresh mozzarella at Bar Toma
  • Andrea Bauer
  • Rock shrimp polpetta and fresh mozzarella at Bar Toma
Mike Sula reviews Bar Toma, Tony Mantuano's accessible new restaurant in the former Bistro 110 space just off the Mag Mile. There he's offering just about everything but pasta, from espresso and pastries to Roman-style pizza to bar bites and wine on tap. Execution's still uneven, however—particularly when it comes to the pizza, pastry, and gelati. That's not to say you can't make a decent meal there, though. Sula suggests starting with the mozzarella bar and focusing on snacks such as rock shrimp polpette and crostini with radicchio marmalade and goat cheese.

In our Cocktail Challenge, Bradley Bolt of Bar DeVille makes a Blind of Eye, a fruity manhattan incorporating Manischewitz Cherry and named for the Hebrew proverb "Better blind of eye than blind of heart." Next up is Justin Anderson of the Bedford and John Manion's forthcoming La Sirena Clandestina, challenged with . . . muddled caviar. "REALLY?! Muddled caviar?" he said via e-mail. Key Ingredient returns next week.

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