Eat ashes at Telegraph Wine Bar | Bleader

Friday, December 30, 2011

Eat ashes at Telegraph Wine Bar

Posted By on 12.30.11 at 08:00 AM

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Most Key Ingredient chefs haven't put the dishes they've made on their menus—with good reason. While the food has been surprisingly palatable overall, you can imagine how bull's balls might not appeal to the average Blackbird patron. Mindy Segal did, but her ingredient was the relatively tame sorghum syrup, with which she made a carrot cake that fit right in at Hot Chocolate. (While Luke Creagan didn't put his bamboo-worm poutine on the menu at Pops for Champagne, someone ordered it anyway.)

John Anderes wasn't initially a huge fan of ash, his assigned ingredient, but the ash-rubbed venison loin and spaetzle with ash that he made were smoky, tangy, and delicious. He was happy enough with the finished product that he said he'd put it on the menu—and he has, with a few adjustments: it's ash-rubbed lamb (instead of venison) with spaetzle and shaved turnips (in place of the baby artichokes he originally used). No word on how long it'll stay on the menu, which changes fairly often, but at $24, it's well worth trying.

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