This week in Food & Drink: Matt Maroni's MorSo, Key Ingredient fenugreek, affordable recommended restaurants in Lincoln Park | Bleader

Friday, October 7, 2011

This week in Food & Drink: Matt Maroni's MorSo, Key Ingredient fenugreek, affordable recommended restaurants in Lincoln Park

Posted By on 10.07.11 at 12:05 PM

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In this week's Reader we review MorSo, the new Lincoln Park fine-dining spot from the king of naanwiches, Matt Maroni of the Gaztro-Wagon food truck and Edgewater storefront. The concise menu is divided into six sections, among them Raw, Offal, Game, and Shellfish, each comprising three items; diners are meant to choose from them to assemble a DIY tasting menu. Standout dishes include an amuse bouche with duck confit and huckleberries, antelope carpaccio, crab cake topped with crispy deep-fried oysters, veal sweetbreads, wild boar belly—the list could go on. In short, it’s a winner. On the second floor is a bar presided over by “libations wizard” Choo (aka Matthew Lipsky), formerly of the Southern. There’s also an appealing and reasonably priced lounge menu served upstairs.

In Cocktail Challenge, Henri mixologist Clint Rogers, challenged with fenugreek, took his inspiration from the Indian five-spice mix panch phoron and made a syrup with the toasted seeds, cumin and celery seed, star anise, and two cardamom pods. He then smoked blueberries, which he muddled and combined with the syrup, Campari, the aperitif Cocchi Americano, rye, and bitters to make the Michigan Sweat Lodge. Next up is Kris von Dopek of Duchamp, working with nopales, cactus paddles. “I have access to fresh ones, so this should be interesting,” he says.

In this week’s listings are five affordable recommended restaurants, among them Floriole Cafe & Bakery, Red Flame, and Caminito Argentinian Grill, the last of which is conveniently close to Steppenwolf.

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