This week in Food & Drink: Key Ingredient burdock root, Bistro Voltaire, and seven more French bistros | Bleader

Friday, September 16, 2011

This week in Food & Drink: Key Ingredient burdock root, Bistro Voltaire, and seven more French bistros

Posted By on 09.16.11 at 12:39 PM

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In Key Ingredient Bonsoiree chef Shin Thompson, challenged by Arami’s B.K. Park with burdock root, makes a soup with sauteed leeks, onion, celery, parsnips, and fennel in addition to the burdock root. “The flavor is unique, but I think it’s best when it works together with other ingredients,” he said. He garnished the soup with pickled burdock, a tempura-fried shiso leaf, sake-steamed clams, deep-fried burdock root, and toasted paprika oil. Next up is former Bonsoiree chef de cuisine Luke Creagan, now of Pops for Champagne, challenged with bamboo worms.

Mike Sula reviews Bistro Voltaire, the new River West boite from Ned Boukran of La Provence Imports, whose frozen breads shipped from France turn out to be one of the highlights of meals that otherwise are inconsistently executed. There’s a large wine list, and staff are untraditionally friendly and enthusiastic, but dishes such as a sole fillet were overcooked, and coq au vin arrives in a puzzling rendition: no pearl onions, no mushrooms, bird tasting roasted rather than braised in red wine and served on top of smashed potatoes rather than with gratineed dauphinoise potatoes.

In the listings are seven more bistros, among them Evanston’s Bistro Bordeaux and the Stained Glass, Beverly’s Koda Bistro, and the ebullient Didier Durand’s River North bistro Cyrano’s.

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