This Week in Food & Drink: Wild Animals and Oysters, Blackbird at 14, Stephanie Izard Goes "Badass" With Key Ingredient Confectioners' Sugar, Eight More New Restaurants, and More | Bleader

Friday, April 1, 2011

This Week in Food & Drink: Wild Animals and Oysters, Blackbird at 14, Stephanie Izard Goes "Badass" With Key Ingredient Confectioners' Sugar, Eight More New Restaurants, and More

Posted By on 04.01.11 at 12:13 PM

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Stephanie Izard

In Omnivorous Mike Sula profiles chef Brian Jupiter, a New Orleans native who at the new Noble Square barstaurant Frontier is smoking whole pigs, lambs, goats, and wild boars and featuring game dishes such as pulled boar sandwiches and elk shepherd’s pie (there’s a recipe for that here). The rustic western-themed sports bar—presided over by a stuffed black bear—also offers oysters, burgers made with Slagel Farms chuck custom-ground down the street at Rob Levitt's Butcher & Larder, and whole grilled redfish inspired by Cochon, a restaurant in the Warehouse District of Jupiter’s hometown.

Kristina Meyer reviews Blackbird, Paul Kahan's pioneering Randolph Row restaurant, which after 14 years remains at the top of its game under chef de cuisine David Posey and pastry chef Patrick Fahy, who along with Kahan is a Beard nominee.

In Key Ingredient Stephanie Izard, whose Girl & the Goat is a Beard nominee for best new restaurant, used confectioners’ sugar in a rub, sauce, and candied almond topping for "a couple of big-ass steaks" turned "totally rustic," "totally badass" with the addition of gordal olives and shiitakes to the almonds and sauce. Next up is Randy Zweiban of Province, working with tamarind. "I love it," Izard said. "But I don’t think it’s something people use at home much."

In One Bite Sula gives a recipe for oden, a Japanese winter stew based on a broth made with dashi, mirin, and soy and filled with slow-cooked that might include daikon, hard-boiled quail eggs, and various packaged fish cakes and varieties of fried tofu.

In the listings are eight new restaurants, among them the West Town "Italian fun pub" Bia for Mia, Logan Square's Japanese-Korean Gosu, and Lincoln Square's Fork (formerly Fiddlehead Cafe) and Prix Fixe, whose name sums up its concept (three courses are $35, while dinner for two is $50).

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