One bite: taco de guevera at Birrieria La Barca Jalisco | Bleader

Wednesday, September 3, 2008

One bite: taco de guevera at Birrieria La Barca Jalisco

Posted By on 09.03.08 at 12:28 PM

Sign up for our newsletters Subscribe

click to enlarge 3523.jpg

I finally made my way to Birrieria La Barca Jalisco on Sunday, which, as far as I know, is the only other restaurant in town besides the wonderful Birrieria Zaragoza that makes birria tatemada, or roasted goat with consomme (as opposed to steamed or simmered). La Barca's birria is different--saltier, fattier, and spicier--than Zaragoza's more subtle cabrito (can you say such a thing about goat?).

Also on hand at La Barca are the very unusual tacos de guevera, or catfish roe tacos (the specimen above was captured by Peter Engler). I could find nothing on this seasonal Jalisciense dish other than what the estimable RST reports here, though Juan Zaragoza says his uncle makes a mean version. At any rate, at La Barca the fish eggs are cooked with peas and chiles and served on one of their otherworldly house-made tortillas. The texture is not unlike tofu scramble, and the flavor is slightly sweet, not at all fishy, and followed by a slow, slight burn from the chiles. Birria is the ideal hangover curative but--while I liked it better than I expected to--I wouldn't put guevera in the same category.

Birrieria La Barca Jalisco, 304 4304 W. 26th, 773-522-1450

Tags: , , , , ,


Subscribe to this thread:

Add a comment

More by Mike Sula

Agenda Teaser

Performing Arts
Bernhardt/Hamlet Goodman Theatre
September 14
Performing Arts
His Shadow 16th Street Theater, Berwyn Cultural Center
September 05

Tabbed Event Search

The Bleader Archive

Popular Stories