New American DUNLAY'S ON CLARK, which replaced Clark Street Bistro in early May, is quickly becoming a neighborhood favorite. It's run by cousins Doug and Michael Dunlay and general manager Michael Speh (Bandera, Houston's), who've spiffed up the room with trendy details like crushed orange mesh lamp shades and black stone floors and clad the waitstaff in black T-shirts and blue jeans. The daily specials are for liquor, not food: Monday and Tuesday are half-price wine nights, Wednesday is three-buck tap beer night, and Thursday a Maker's Mark manhattan or flavored Stoli martini is $5. But the drink promotions don't detract from the effort clearly being made in the kitchen. The eclectic menu has many good, if standard, selections -- chunky homemade guacamole, pepper-crusted sashimi of ahi tuna, entree-size salads, sandwiches, and pizzas -- while several more sophisticated entrees elevate the place above a run-of-the-mill casual American eatery. The pork tenderloin is cured in maple syrup and glazed in a raspberry barbecue sauce, served appropriately rosy in the center and seared on the outside. (A tasty side dish of "killer" wild rice comes studded with almonds, corn, and dried fruit; it's served cold, a nugget of useful information the server smartly offered when we placed our order.) The grilled Idaho ruby red trout was skillfully prepared, done Asian-style with garlic, ginger, and a soy glaze. The limited wine list is predominantly American, full of low-end but reasonably priced selections. For key lime pie fans, Dunlay's offers a rendition that may be one of the best north of the Keys. The service goes beyond attentive, giving the sense that you're a sincerely welcome guest. Dunlay's on Clark is at 2600 N. Clark, 773-883-6000.