Classically trained chef Roy Yamaguchi opened his first namesake restaurant in Honolulu in 1988, serving a style of cuisine he called Hawaiian fusion. Now ROY'S is a chain with 30 locations, though you wouldn't guess it from the stylish room and high-quality fare. This branch, located at the corner of State and Superior, is massive: the 7,000-square-foot room, which seats over 200 people, features 20-foot vaulted ceilings, floor-to-ceiling windows, crimson walls hung with striking modern prints, and a central exhibition kitchen crowded with the largest culinary staff I've ever seen. Service and food more than make up for the frenzied atmosphere and the overwhelming scale. An assortment of Roy's classics starts off the menu, executed by chef Tom Hope, a Chicago native who spent four years training with the company in locations from Hawaii to Denver. There's an appetizer of delicate Japanese-style misoyaki butterfish resting on baby bok choy in a sweet ginger-wasabi butter; another option is skewered coconut shrimp in a chili-spiked cocktail sauce. A salad of Asian poached pears, candied walnuts, and Maytag blue cheese lightly tossed in a lemongrass red wine vinaigrette has a lot going on, but it works. A category of entrees titled "roasted, grilled, and steamed" features a triad of Chinese duck preparations: sliced rare breast, an impressive confit, and a leg with wok-fried rice, all in a wonderful star anise mango sauce. A good option for sampling is the mixed plate, which changes daily; it might combine honey mustard short ribs and butterfish or blackened ahi and lemongrass-crusted shutome (Hawaiian swordfish) in a Thai basil peanut sauce. The wine list is particularly outstanding, with close to a dozen hard-to-find offerings by the glass and several bottles specially labeled for Roy's from such notable vineyards as Iron Horse, De Loach, and Au Bon Climat. The melting hot chocolate souffle with fresh seasonal fruit -- which has to be ordered at the same time as the entree -- is a must-try for chocolate lovers. Service is attentive and cheerful, although all the "alohas" can get a bit silly. Roy's is at 720 N. State, 312-787-7599.