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December 29, 2000

[Patrick Concannon of Don Juan on Halsted; photo/Lloyd DeGrane][ ]Chef-owner Patrick Concannon has opened a new arm of his popular Edison Park establishment Don Juan in the old Blue Mesa space. For DON JUAN ON HALSTED, the adobe-style room has been transformed into a softly lit, wide-open area painted in warm tones of yellow and apricot, with the main dining room extending outdoors to a 90-seat patio in warm weather. The menu, a grown-up version of the more standard Mexican fare at the original place, lists close to a dozen hot and cold appetizers. There's possibly the best crab cake in town, short on filler and long on fresh crab, topped with roasted sweet corn and red peppers and surrounded by a smooth, refreshing jalapeño cream and cilantro oil; and a ginger-spiked tuna tartare molded into a square flanked by walls of pita crisps, scoops of perfectly ripe avocado, and dollops of tangy mango puree. Of Concannon's signature entrees, the duck confit is a showstopper -- two perfectly cooked leg pieces atop mounds of crisp chorizo-studded potatoes Anna and garlicky spinach, all balanced by a thick dried-fruit sauce. The venison fajita holds its own too, with several thick slices of medium-rare venison (the degree of preparation suggested by the attentive and accommodating waitstaff) perched on strips of pan-seared onions and peppers and a square of heavenly sweet potato gratin (also available as a side). Concannon's come out of the blocks running, and food lovers should do the same before the waits get too long. Don Juan on Halsted is at 1729 N. Halsted, 312-981-4000.

[ ]The first U.S. outpost of the swing-themed, Puerto Vallarta-based KIT KAT LOUNGE & SUPPER CLUB opened November 28. Long white leather sofas line the exposed brick walls, while photos of Hollywood stars hang above stone tabletops. More than 25 flavored martinis are offered -- including such kitschy combinations as cherry Coke, lime drop, and banana split (vodka, white chocolate and banana liqueurs, and a splash of vanilla) -- along with an array of retro cocktails like Rob Roys and gimlets. Executive chef Patrick Wiese executes comfort-food classics including meat loaf, Caesar salad, and a standard but satisfying pepper-encrusted beef tenderloin; he also goes eclectic with offerings like coconut crab cakes served with a dill tartar sauce and mango ketchup, savory pumpkin-seed-encrusted mahimahi, and eggplant bread pudding, all artistically presented. Live cabaret entertainment Wednesday through Sunday features performances by impersonators (both male and female) of Marilyn Monroe, Bette Davis, Eartha Kitt, and other stars of the 40s and 50s. Service is friendly and attentive. Kit Kat Lounge & Supper Club is at 3700 N. Halsted, 773-525-1111.

[ ]The coolest and hardest-to-find new restaurant may be MOLIVE, located at the end of a winding hall off the lobby of the Whitehall Hotel. Despite the conservative ambience of the hotel lobby, this cozy dining room feels like an exotic nightclub, with animal-skin-upholstered bar stools and banquettes, dim lighting, deep walnut trim, and colorful fabric-covered walls. Executive chef Bart Hosmer (a protege of Bradley Ogden in San Francisco) shows his skill with the Mediterranean-influenced American cuisine. Balance and innovation rule in starters like the sinfully rich and exquisite golden chanterelle-foie gras crostini with goat cheese and fresh thyme, or a special of wild striped bass on a bed of fresh hearts of palm in a lemon cream sauce. Entrees include his signature osso buco, a huge, fork-tender veal shank loaded with meat on a bed of Tuscan white beans with a tangerine-sage gremolata; another taste-bud tantalizer is the day-boat scallops: six perfectly browned, tender morsels served with a seafood risotto full of shelled mussels and shrimp and drizzled with cumin oil. The frequently changing menu is matched with an ambitious, frequently changing wine list, featuring more than 200 selections assembled by general manager and master sommelier Thomas Beleieu. There are also 40 wines poured by the glass, ten microbrews, and a lineup of after-dinner drinks including grappa, cognac, Armagnac, and several single malts. The waitstaff is professional and attentive without being intrusive. Molive is at 107 E. Delaware, 312-573-6300.

[ ]The former Red Rock Grill space is now home to BECCO D'ORO, an upscale Italian restaurant by the owners of Milwaukee's Becco Fino. Nestled inside the Radisson Hotel, the room is cozy -- low white ceilings are striped with black wood beams, tables are formally dressed in white linen, and a long black-and-white-upholstered banquette divides the room. Arched windows on the east will open for sidewalk seating come spring, giving the otherwise cramped room some breathing space. Northern Italian classics are the norm -- carpaccio, fried calamari, caprese salad -- with one interesting torte of baked layers of potatoes, caramelized onions, carrots, and celery root served in a rich wild-mushroom ragout and drizzled with red pepper puree. Pastas are homemade; a lobster ravioli special came surrounded by warm grape tomatoes and small balls of fresh mozzarella in another rich sauce, this time seafood based. Several risottos are offered, along with fish and meat. The beef tenderloin with Gorgonzola was a tender, perfectly cooked piece of meat that unfortunately came in a demiglace touched too heavily with cream. The tuxedo-clad, all-male waitstaff is professional and prompt, and the mostly Italian wine list is extensive. The overall ambience is somewhat staid, and prices are high, but it should serve hotel guests and locals well. Becco D'oro is at 160 E. Huron, 312-787-1300.

—Laura Levy Shatkin