| From the Grapevine Archive: this column appeared in August, 2002:
Every month in this space we highlight comments from the Reader Restaurant Raters and pick trends from our stream of incoming reports.
Attack of the Chains
In the last year it seems like River North has become a magnet for national
chain restaurants, and now even suburban behemoths like Bob Chinn's and Weber
Grill have opened downtown branches. But is more really better? Below
are some Rater opinions on a few of the new arrivals:
Napa Valley Grille, 630 N. State (report submitted 8/2/02 by Gregg
Hollander): Nothing special, which is a shame. Chicago could use an
alternative to massive portions of meat-and-potatoes fare. I was stunned,
STUNNED I tell you, at the poor quality of service from both the bar staff
and our server. The bartenders (there were two of them the night we
visited) were too busy throwing (slamming, actually) empty bottles away to
bother serving us a drink. My wife asked for some recommendations on one of
the wines by the glass and the bartender made some ridiculous snooty
comment about how, if we were serious about appreciating fine wines, we
would insist on buying a full bottle. Our server was nice enough, but he
had no idea what was expected of him as far as providing us information
about the chef's offering for the day. He didn't know what they were, went
and borrowed someone else's notes and then couldn't identify ingredients,
preparations, etc, beyond what the notes said. I simply expect more from my
server than handing me a menu and bringing me my food, at least at a
restaurant like this one, which pretends to some class . . .
Bob Chinn's Crab House Chicago, 315 N. LaSalle (report submitted 8/4/02 by
Ellen Joy): The place is huge; I think it seats 800, so it's easy to get a
reservation and you don't have to wait like at the original Wheeling
location. The ambience is like a train station with no effort to muffle
noise in the furnishings, so it's not the place for conversation. With such
a large volume of customers and Bob Chinn's reputation, we expected very
fresh seafood and we got it. However, since it only opened a month ago, we
got very befuddled service, like the clam chowder instead of the lobster
bisque and oysters instead of scallops. Even the valet was complaining that
the keys got misnumbered, so their system of having a cashier call out the
keys failed to speed things up. But the food itself was excellent. My
husband loved the lobster bisque and sashimi and scallops on the half
shell; my grilled shrimp salad was very good (though the waiter said that I
couldn't choose the dressing that the salad had--it was the chef's whim--so
a vinagrette came on the side, puzzling me as to why I couldn't have
something else), and the whole Dungeness crab with ginger and onions was
very delicious but very messy. My waiter didn't offer me a bib but did come
up with extra napkins and hot towels after I finished (note well: the
ladies' washroom has an attendant). The mochi ice cream came in four
flavors: vanilla, chocolate, strawberry, and green tea (I happen to like
mochi a lot). And the coffee was very good also. Hopefully the service will
improve with time, but the food is terrific now!
Weber Grill, 539 N. State (report submitted 6/16/02 by Ron Tevonian): Our
experience supported the view that the scene is fun, and active. However,
the food was a disappointment. My wife had a petit filet mignon--"medium."
Weber's touted cooking method: "Seared at 1,500 degrees, then cooked slowly
to desired degree" resulted in the exterior so severely charred that it was
"carburized" beyond taste. I would have sent it back! My meat loaf
consisted of three slices, drenched in barbecue sauce, then grilled . . .
not quite as severely. Go for the novelty, go elsewhere else for good dining.
Roy's, 720 N. State (report submitted 7/8/02 by Emily Paster): My husband
and I sought to recapture the magic of our recent Hawaiian honeymoon with a
dinner at Roy's, the newly opened Chicago outpost of the chain founded by
celebrity chef Roy Yamaguchi, whose restaurants pop up like weeds all over
the Hawaiian islands. Dinner was a pleasant experience--the food was
certainly good--but not so special that, in this city of wonderful
restaurants, we are dying to go back. First, the room: the Roy's in Hawaii
tend to be bustling, chaotic places. This was not. The restaurant seems to
be going for a somber, subdued look with its dark wood and Asian decor, and
it certainly is an attractive room, but the noise and the informality of
the servers' attire seemed slightly incongruous. Service overall was
friendly if a little sloppy. Our waiter had a very nice manner, but right
after I ordered the butterfish, he asked me how I wanted my ahi done, and
he forget to order my husband's fruit strudel in advance. Fortunately,
there was no harm done as the kitchen had an extra. The food is the real
attraction here. I started with the peeky-toe crab salad off of the
specials menu. Very tasty, but the portion was tiny and the promised
"gazpachos" were a glossy coating of a tomato-flavored liquid! My husband
had a salad that he said was fine. We were more impressed with our entrees.
I had the Japanese butterfish off of the Classics menu, and it was aptly
named! The fish melted in your mouth and, due to its three-day marinating,
was bursting with flavor. The vegetable and rice accompaniments were
excellent as well. My husband had a chicken tempura off of the daily
specials menu which he liked very much. It was light, not greasy at all and
a very attractive presentation, with the pieces of chicken stuffed with
vegetables. Roy's has been complimented many times for its innovative wine
list, including some wines bottled just for them, but as we were trying to
re-create our Hawaiian honeymoon, we opted for silly tropical drinks
instead. And they were great! It definitely reminded us of sitting by the
beach in Maui. As for desserts, we stuck with the classics: I had the
molten chocolate souffle, which was fabulous, of course, but frankly a bit
sweet for my taste; a more bittersweet chocolate might have added some
sophistication. And my husband had the apple and pineapple strudel with
caramel sauce and vanilla ice cream. He seemed quite pleased. Again, it was
a nice meal, but it didn't really stand out in any way. If you are dying to
be reminded of Hawaii, it is great, but if not, there are plenty of equally
nice places to drop $130 bucks on dinner.
Lalo's, 500 N. LaSalle (report submitted 6/16/02 by Ron Tevonian): The
first visual impression is bright, large, and cheerful. The food is "good
enough." I wonder where the "bigger is better" rule got to apply to
burritos? Mine was so fat, and the tortilla so weak, that it became just a
mush on my plate! The biggest complaint is that the service is too fast!
Good servers can pace the food by observing the customers. If you make the
mistake of ordering your entree at the same time as your margarita, don't
expect an opportunity to relax and sip! It is more of a Mex-Mill than a
place for a relaxed night out.
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