| From the Grapevine Archive: this column appeared in February, 2002:
Every month in this space we highlight comments from the Reader Restaurant Raters and pick trends from our stream of incoming reports.
VEGETARIANS TALK BACK
Raters
who don't eat meat have been pretty vocal this month, pointing out
nice surprises and cruel disappointments alike. For example there was the
diner at Crofton on Wells who was "very happy to have the professional
waiter tell us the risotto app was made with a vegetarian stock," and the
patron of Happy Chef Dim Sum on Archer who reported that vegetarians were
accommodated "without a problem/fuss, even considering it was crazed today for
the Chinese New Year!" One Rater just wanted to point out that the menu at
773 Chicago, the Turkish/Mediterranean place on Irving Park Road, has "a
whole section of vegetarian options."
Here's what they had to say about some other places:
Amarind, 6822 W. North (report submitted 1/17/02 by Helen Mirra):
There are
very few vegetarian things on the menu, less than usual Thai menus, and
they don't have som tum with sticky rice (papaya salad), our test for a
Thai restaurant. The chive dumplings were nice, the tom kha soup was very
good but a very small large, and the curry we chose was presented
beautifully but the flavors were strangely balanced. Weak tea, but friendly
inexperienced waitress. Hopefully Oak Parkers will discover it.
Arya Bhavan, 2508 W. Devon (report submitted 1/27/02 by Ellen Vinz):
This
is a terrific restaurant for vegetarians (a vegetarian can have the bizarre
experience here of being able to eat EVERYTHING on the buffet table) and
nonvegetarians alike. Although Arya Bhavan has a full menu, we have always
come for the lunch or dinner buffet (on weekends) because it's such a good
value. The buffet begins with fresh utthapam (small pancakes made from
fermented rice batter) with coconut and tamarind chutney to accompany them.
At dinner they have an amazing curry, served on toasted hamburger buns
"sloppy Joe" style. The heart of the buffet is the eight or so vegetable
dishes, which are different every time. The chef takes some risks in that
you would never find most of the dishes on a typical Indian-restaurant
menu . . . this means that every time I go, there is at least one thing I've
never tried or even seen before. Not all the dishes work (at least for
American palates), but they're fun to try nonetheless. Standouts include
chana masala (chickpeas, the best preparation I've had anywhere), vegetable
jalfrezi (carrots and potatoes in a chili sauce), cabbage and pea sabji,
whatever dal they have that day, and the carrot halva for dessert. Service
is very good.
Arun's, 4156 N. Kedzie (report submitted 2/8/02 by Kimberly Petersen):
Though I can't speak for meat eaters, I definitely would not
recommend this
restaurant for vegetarians. It simply does not offer anything especially
innovative or exquisite for those who do not eat meat or seafood. Too many
dishes had mushrooms of one sort or another, and too many items were
deep-fat-fried. The one standout was the pad thai; it was great, but not
worth the price. A few dishes contained tofu, but it was the typical huge
fried blocks with sauce on top. I felt that the chefs at Arun's really
weren't comfortable with preparing tofu. I've experienced more vegetarian
cooking innovation at storefront Thai restaurants.
There was far too long to wait between each of the appetizer dishes. I
actually felt bored, waiting for each dish to arrive. Also, the appetizers
seemed too similar--a lot of salad-plus-fried-mushroom items.
My dining companion and I told the waiter that we enjoyed our Thai food
spicy. We were therefore surprised at how few of the dishes were spicy at
all--other than dollops of spicy mustard sauce on the sides of a few of the
appetizers, nothing was the slightest bit spicy except for a somewhat hot
green curry dish.
I felt like I was paying for the great service and prettiness of the
entrees. Was it worth $85 per person? I think not. Even if it were only $15
per person, I probably would not return.
Bolat, 3346 N. Clark (report submitted 2/12/2002 by Shelley Miller):
While
this restaurant might be an enticing choice for meat eaters, I was
thouroughly unimpressed with the lack of vegetarian entrees. What made my
dining experience more offensive was the fact that my waiter specifically
pointed out "vegetarian" options on the menu, only for me to find a few
bites in my choice that in fact contained fish (and a good bit of it). I
ate the white rice from my dining partner's plate, as there was nothing
more substantive on the menu that didn't contain animal products.
I don't know where the person that rated Bolat for the Reader got the
information about there being "many meatless dishes full of unusual
ingredients"--perhaps he or she spoke with the same waiter that I did, or
perhaps the meatlessness was inferred from the vague descriptions of dishes
on the menu. I know that I, and at least one other party there that
evening, attempted to dine there specifically because Bolat was portrayed
as being vegetarian friendly by its Reader rater, which made for an
unpleasant and awkward experience for both us and the waitstaff.
Chicago Diner, 3411 N. Halsted (report submitted 1/18/02):
This is
complicated. We eat here a lot, since it the only vegetarian
restaurant below Devon and above 75th Street. The booths are great, but the
tables are too close. Everyone who works there is really nice, but some of
them are pretty spacey. The food is extremely hit or miss, for example
sometimes cold chewy French toast, sometimes super yummy hot French toast.
It is expensive for what it is, but then again it is on Halsted near
Belmont. Often they are blasting music which can be distracting and
annoying, and it can be REALLY cold. But sometimes the music is not
blasting, and it is nice, and it is warm enough, and comfortable. More than
once I have noticed numerous customers leaving their hats on during their
meal. It is exciting to have vegan cakes on the menu, but they tend to be
dry and disappointing, unless you go in just for cake and coffee, when it
is more satisfying than after a meal. It would be nice if they were more
inclined toward organics. It is very handy that they have parking at night
and on weekends.
Ras Dashen, 5846 N. Broadway (report submitted 2/14/02 by Julia Cole):
The
vegetarian combo is an incredible deal for $9. You select from 12 different
salads, vegetable and dairy side dishes, and entrees. Tonight I had
yeqaysur salata (red beets and potatoes served cold with tangy dressing),
gomen (kale, collard or mustard greens), qosta (spinach),
diblik atkilt
(green beans/potatoes/carrots/zucchini), and kik alicha (yellow split
peas). All the dishes had a nice spice/aroma/flavor and the lentil soup is
also very tasty! Takeout is available, but, it's so nice to have the
ambience of true Ethiopia, with the food served on a platter to share,
lying on top of injera bread. Finish off the meal with a nice cup of
Ethiopian coffee, freshly roasted each night. Also, the original artwork
is interesting and appealing to look at.
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