Sweet Deal
The company that shuttered the west-side Brach’s plant in 2003 is coming back,
enticed by $880,000 in TIF funds.
Kurt Mitchell
By Ben Joravsky
January 5, 2007
ON NEW YEAR’S Eve 2003 Barry
Callebaut, the world’s largest
chocolate manufacturer, finished
closing the old Brach’s candy
factory in Austin, throwing the last
of its 3,500 employees out of work.
At the time, outraged city officials
unsuccessfully begged the
parent company to reconsider.
Now, three years later, the holiday
spirit has apparently softened the
hearts of the Daley administration.
On December 12, the Community
Development Commission, whose
members are appointed by the
mayor, approved an $880,000
grant to Barry Callebaut. The
grant, recommended by the city’s
planning department, will help the
company cover the cost of moving
its North American corporate
headquarters from Quebec to the
old Montgomery Ward building at
600 W. Chicago.
The subsidy comes from—where
else?—the city’s tax increment
financing program. I’ve written
extensively about the trouble with
TIFs: just for starters, they raise
property taxes, divert millions
from schools and parks, and
endanger the city’s fiscal future by
keeping hundreds of millions of
dollars a year in revenues off the
books. (For more, see chicagoreader.com/tifarchive.) But in some
ways the actual TIF deals, the
details of which the city generally
makes difficult to uncover, are
even more outrageous.
Barry Callebaut’s Christmas
present comes from the Chicago-Kingsbury TIF, which was created
on April 12, 2000, largely to subsidize
the restoration of the
Montgomery Ward building and
the redevelopment of the surrounding
land. State law requires
that TIFs be intended to stimulate
development in blighted communities
that developers and investors
would otherwise ignore. According
to planning department documents,
the area around Chicago
Avenue and the Chicago River in
River North qualified because it
was “not expected to be redeveloped
by private entrepreneurs”
without the TIF.
This is obviously dubious. For
one thing, the development of old
River North factories into art galleries
and lofts had been going on
for years without much in the way
of TIF subsidies. For another, the
city had already committed to
demolishing the Cabrini-Green
housing project—the single
greatest impediment to high-end
development in the area. As more
than one developer has told me,
the forced expulsion of thousands
of poor CHA residents from
Cabrini-Green—an enormous
logistical and legal endeavor that
has cost tens of millions of federal
and local dollars—provided the
necessary catalyst for the economic
transformation of the near north
side. With the poor moved out and
their old high-rises leveled, any
developer who can’t make a fortune
in River North without a
handout should think about getting
out of the business.
In any event, between the
moment the City Council created
the Chicago-Kingsbury district and
the moment it expires in 2023, all
new property taxes generated
within its boundaries get diverted
into a fund that’s largely controlled
by Mayor Daley and the local
alderman, Walter Burnett of the
27th Ward. By 2023 the city expects
that will be about $280.7 million—money that otherwise would go to
entities like the schools, the parks,
and the libraries.
The first big payout went to EPort,
the massive renovation and
construction project on the
Montgomery Ward property along
the banks of the river. A consortium
of some of the city’s most successful
developers got about $28 million in
TIF funds to help create more than
2,000 residential units, 1.8 million
square feet of commercial space,
and an 80-slip marina. In exchange,
the developers promised to build
about 230 units of affordable
housing, half of which would be set
aside for displaced Cabrini-Green
residents. The other housing would
be sold at market rate, with units
fetching as much as $800,000.
The Community Development
Commission, which oversees TIF
deals, approved the E-Port subsidy
in August 2001. That was a
few months after Brach’s—which
at the time was owned by Swiss
billionaire Klaus Jacobs, who also
owns Barry Callebaut—announced it was moving the
Austin jobs to Tennessee, Mexico,
and Argentina. The two developments
illustrate the striking contrast
between boom and bust in
Daley’s Chicago.
After that announcement
aldermen, activists, residents, and
clergy pleaded with Brach’s to
reconsider, arguing that it would
lead to a devastating loss of jobs and
tax revenue, as well as raise welfare
and unemployment. Brach’s became
a subsidiary of Barry Callebaut in
2003, and not long after that company
officials said the decision was
final. But city leaders kept up the
pressure. On October 9, 2003, 28th
Ward alderman Ed Smith sent a
letter to Jacobs, asking “in the spirit
of cooperation and mutual benefit”
for the old Brach’s factory to be
“redeveloped to provide the type of
manufacturing jobs that keep
Chicago neighborhoods healthy and
strong.” The letter was cosigned by
Alicia Berg, then the city’s planning
commissioner, and Jerry Roper,
president of the Chicagoland
Chamber of Commerce, as well as
west-side leaders.
About two weeks later, Barry
Callebaut sold the property for
about $2.2 million. The 30-acre site
remains boarded up to this day.
Now Barry Callebaut is coming
back. The company hopes to begin
moving to Chicago Avenue in a
matter of months, said Jerry
Hagedorn, CFO for North
American operations, at the
December 12 development commission
meeting. According to
Hagedorn the company will relocate
about a dozen employees from
other cities and hire as many as 90
new employees. There won’t be any
manufacturing jobs: the closest
thing to candy-making will happen
at the on-site Chocolate Academy,
where chefs will be trained to use
gourmet chocolate in their
kitchens. “We’re very excited about
our project here in Chicago,”
Hagedorn said.
The commissioners couldn’t have
been more amenable. They made no
mention of the families thrown into
ruin when Brach’s left the west side.
In fact, they made no mention of
Brach’s at all. Moreover, they didn’t
ask anything remotely resembling a
critical question about why the
world’s largest chocolate manufacturer
needed $880,000 to move to
Chicago. (I would have asked
Hagedorn, but he didn’t return my
calls for comment.)
Alderman Burnett (who
received at least $10,500 in campaign
contributions from E-Port’s
owners between 1999 and 2003)
was on hand to endorse the deal.
First he praised the CDC’s members,
many of whom are successful
real estate lawyers and
developers. “Some of you lose millions
of dollars just being here,”
he said. Then he thanked Barry
Callebaut for deigning to take the
city’s money. “It gives me great
pride to be here,” Burnett said.
“This is a candy company coming
to the city of Chicago, bringing
job opportunities to Cabrini-Green. Everyone knows people in
Chicago love chocolate.”
The commission then unanimously
approved the subsidy. The
proposed deal now moves to the
City Council; because it has the
alderman’s support its approval is
virtually certain. It’s a sweet deal for
E-Port’s owners, who get a tenant to
fill vacant space. It’s a sweet deal for
Barry Callebaut, which gets taxpayer
money to defray moving
expenses.
It’s unclear, however, how the
public will benefit. Presumably we
get a boost in civic pride from
having Barry Callebaut claim
Chicago as a corporate home, and
that’s a big deal to Mayor Daley:
over the last five years he’s
directed TIF funds to help Boeing,
United Airlines, USG, and now
Barry Callebaut either stay in
town or move their corporate
headquarters here.
But that doesn’t translate into
more property tax dollars for financially
strapped schools or tax breaks
for property owners. All new property
tax dollars in a TIF district go
into the TIF fund.
The new headquarters likely
won’t help people who lost their
jobs at the Brach’s factory—Burnett
didn’t mention them. And despite
his optimism, I don’t see how it will
benefit past or present Cabrini-Green residents. I doubt many of
them have the skills required for the
high-end jobs Barry Callebaut will
be bringing to its new headquarters.
There is of course the head tax,
the monthly $4 per employee fee all
companies with 50 or more workers
pay to the city. If Barry Callebaut
makes good on its plan to hire up to
100 workers next year the city will
be raking in about $4,800 annually.
So in 183 years or so we’ll have
made back the $880,000 we gave to
Barry Callebaut.
But hey, that’s a better deal for taxpayers
than the USG arrangement I
analyzed five weeks ago. We’ll need
270 years to recoup the $6.5 million
the city gave them. As TIF deals go, I
guess we can call the Barry Callebaut
subsidy progress. 
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