Food & Drink

Fish escoveitch at Ja' Grill

Rob Warner

What’s New

Jamaican in Lincoln Park, a pricey letdown in River North, and tony hotel food

Rogers Park, Chatham, Maywood—all areas whose lucky residents have easy access to excellent home-style island food. Now Lincoln Park does too. Ja’ Grill chef Errol Gallimore, who came here from Jamaica in 1992, learned to cook from his mother and did time in south-side restaurants before he was tapped to run the kitchen at this comfortable barstaurant. The few faults I found with his food don’t seem to be a result of underestimating the neighborhood’s tastes. Jerk chicken, accompanied by a sharp, vinegary jerk sauce in hot or mild, was passable, but it just didn’t have the ethereal smokiness and juiciness of its counterpart at, say, Tropic Island. And stewed chicken was a bit dry despite its nice dark brown stew sauce. But the seafood dishes I tried were terrific: a grouper escoveitch piled with julienned vegetables was biting and fruity, jerk catfish had the smokiness and spice the chicken lacked, and a murky fish soup with pumpkin, cho cho (chayote), and house-made dumplings had a powerful kick. My favorite dish, though, was the simple, soft cabbage and carrots steamed in coconut milk. The owner, Tony Coates, stopped by our table to encourage us to suck every scrap of deliriously rich meat off the oxtails—not like we needed the extra motivation. This is a nice quiet spot for lunch, with old-school reggae on the sound system, but at night it’s bumping, with DJs in the downstairs lounge and revelers drinking up the house rum punch, made with three kinds of rum and tropical juices. —Mike Sula

Ja’ Grill
1088 W. Armitage, 773-929-5375

Special-event prices demand a special occasion. So for my birthday I went to Prosecco, a posh Italian boite in River North where the entrees top out at $38 for a veal chop. Unfortunately, with a few exceptions, the restaurant did little to make us feel, well, special. The complimentary toot of namesake bubbly was nice, and our server was unflaggingly sweet and helpful, going so far as to have the sommelier open an off-list bottle when the wine we chose was out of stock. But Prosecco is the sort of top-heavy place where phalanxes of handsome managers in dark suits do a lot of glad-handing while the lone guy bringing out the food is practically running. That top-heavy philosophy applies equally to the kitchen, which seems to operate under the rule of thumb “when in doubt, add butter—and truffles.” Orechiette tartufate was a devastatingly rich plate of pasta tossed with wild mushrooms, sun-dried tomatoes, artichoke hearts, and a whole lot of black truffle cream and white truffle oil. At first bite (or three) delicious, it was so surprisingly lacking in depth—and so damn rich—that it quickly lost its charm. Seared diver scallops, caramelized to a crisp, came on a puddle of vanilla-scented prosecco reduction powerfully reminiscent of vanilla yogurt. They were, again, so rich—and so salty—I barely made it through half. We had better luck with a Cornish game hen, whose stuffing of porcini mushrooms, sausage, chestnuts, and black truffles delivered enough smoky, nutty flavor to give the dish structure. While the thigh meat was dry, the breast was moist and tender. We shared the pasta and an appetizer, a trio of white tuna, ahi tuna, and salmon crudo—only the citrusy salmon really sang. And though we steered clear of the veal chop, the filet mignon, and the gold-leaf-dusted risotto, the bill still came to more than $200. —Martha Bayne

Prosecco
710 N. Wells, 312-951-9500

With so many tony hotel dining rooms biting the dust, you’ve got to hand it to the Palmer House Hilton for giving Lockwood a chance. The handsome room, which opened last month as part of a major renovation, exudes contemporary sophistication, but strikes against it include the lack of a street entrance, high prices, and a mantra of “fresh seasonal foods” that doesn’t distinguish it from scads of other trendy spots. Throw in service that, at least on my visit, was well-meaning but unpolished and the pressure is on executive chef Phillip Foss (Le Cirque, Bistrot Margot) to provide the wow factor. At dinner he concentrates on eight appetizers ($12-$18) and as many entrees ($26-$52), plus a seven-course “signature tasting” ($115, $195 with wine) packed with luxury ingredients. Highlights of the tasting menu were a “Russian sampler” of layered smoked sturgeon and yellow beets coated with vodka creme fraiche and crowned by osetra caviar; tender sliced squab paired with “not faux gras” (i.e., the real thing) and accented by bitter chocolate sauce; and a rectangle of Meadow Creek Dairy Grayson, a raw cow’s milk cheese served with mashed persimmons, truffle honey, and brioche. Salty red-wine sauce was all that marred prime beef tenderloin blanketed with black truffles, and while the brownie in “Bertha’s famous brownie revisited”—named for Bertha Palmer—was dry, the accompanying chocolate ice cream and mousse were lovely. The a la carte lineup was mixed. I enjoyed the light yet rich “oysters and pearls,” Island Creek oysters with caviarlike globes of chenin blanc and a side of hollandaise, but no one would mistake the slightly bitter “faux gras”—duck liver terrine—for genuine foie gras. Creative cocktails and craft beers were more impressive than the wine list, which doesn’t give vintages even though prices range from $40 to $600. —Anne Spiselman

Lockwood
17 E. Monroe, 312-726-7500

OTHER RECENT OPENINGS

Lao Beijing 2138 S. Archer, 312-881-0168

Lao Shanghai 2163 S. China Pl., 312-808-0830

Risque Cafe 3419 N. Clark, 773-555-7711

Rustik 2515 N. California, 773-235-0002

Smoke Shack 800 W. Altgeld, 773-248-8886

Takashi 1952 N. Damen, 773-772-6170

For more on food and drink, see our blog The Food Chain.

What Else Is New

Sixteen more recent openings

Bbop Lounge 1507 N. Sedgwick | 312-981-1775

$$$ Asian, Korean | Dinner: seven days | Open late: Every night till 11 | BYO

The folks behind Wrigleyville’s Bbop built an admirable gateway to the basics of Korean food in their fast, cheap take-out joint, but their new effort, in the former Heat space, nullifies that good karma. All brushed-steel furnishings and house music—our waiter actually shucked and jived while we dithered over the menu—the narrow space, lined on one side by a long, so far unstocked bar, is a showcase for sugar shock and overpriced Korean standards. You can tell a lot about a place by its panchan, and here the spread of nine preprandial little bites come to the table on a single triangular plate which, creditably, was repeatedly replenished upon request. This was accompanied by a precious little pancake, half the size of a self-respecting Koreatown version. The sweet potato cellophane noodles in the chap chae, a simple and typically oily dish that’s hard to improve upon, slid limply to one side of the heavy flatware and were $11—at Bbop, the same damn thing in a takeout container is $5.75. Bulgogi were insipidly sweet, but the greatest sin was the o jing ah bokum (panfried squid), sectioned tentacles and zucchini in a deluge of ketchupy-sweet red pepper sauce. Kimchi chigae (stew), a shockingly poor value at $10, was tasty but small. Bbop Lounge is currently BYO with no corkage fee. —Mike Sula

Chant 1509 E. 53rd | 773-955-2200

$$

Asian, thai | Lunch, dinner: Monday-Saturday | Closed Sunday | Open late: Friday & Saturday till 1, tuesday-Thursday till midnight | Reservations accepted for large groups only

Hyde Park’s food scene is notable for two things—its overwhelming mediocrity and its glut of Thai food. So Chant, another slightly-above-average Thai joint, will probably seem more disappointing to locals than to visitors. Avocado rolls, a vegetarian substitute for sushi, were bland and small even for an appetizer. Otherwise vegetables seem to be a strength here; both the clay-pot tofu (“monk-food-style healthy, but pretty savory for being so,” said a friend) and the roasted vegetables were very good, although the curry sauce that came with the latter was greasy. Right now Chant is best appreciated for the elements that distinguish it from Hyde Park’s other Thai restaurants: its bright, contemporary atmosphere, a relief from the typical shopworn Hyde Park establishment; its late hours; and its bar. There’s live jazz on weekends. —Whet Moser

Cheogajip/Pizza & Chicken Love Letter 8273 W. Golf, Niles | 847-583-1582

$ Korean, Pizza | Lunch, dinner: seven days | Open late: Every night till 11 | Reservations not accepted

In South Korea, curious interpretations of American fast food are extremely popular. Fried chicken “hofs” serving beer and whole chickens, cut up and drenched in thick sweet-spicy sauce, seem to be on every street corner, and Italian restaurants, hilariously but less successfully to my taste, dress pizzas with bulgogi, root vegetables, and sweet mayonnaise. Pizza & Chicken Love Letter, the first local incursion of Korean megachain Cheogajip, offers both (but no beer) from its location deep in a suburban strip mall. Small hacked chickens are fried to order in a neutral batter—similar to Brown’s, a friend observed—and served plain or drenched in sweet or sweet-hot sticky sauce with a powerful cinnamon note. Though Korean-Chinese restaurants like Great Sea and V.I.P. do a much better job with this style, the chain also offers rotisserie and popcorn chicken. Pizza crusts are thick and biscuity, and in the case of the Royal Potato pizza, stuffed with mashed sweet potato, topped with pepperoni and potato chunks, and drizzled with mayo. Eat-in orders are preceded by diced daikon in supersweet vinegar and repulsive shredded raw cabbage smothered with Thousand Island dressing and canned corn. Order a combo for the full Lost in Translation novelty and brace for a hallucinogenic MSG rush. —Mike Sula

Connoisseur 1041 W. Grand | 312-739-3055

$$ Small Plates, American Contemporary/Regional, Southern/Soul Food | Dinner: Sunday, Tuesday-Saturday | Closed Monday | Open late: Saturday till 3; Sunday, Tuesday-Friday till 2

Sipping Dom at Connoisseur, you’d be forgiven a spit-take when the Prodigy’s “Smack My Bitch Up” comes over the sound system. Owner Gerald Lott explains he’s aiming for that disconnect between sophisticated sips and untamed tunes: “It starts conversation,” he told us, and that’s the point here, where comfy pillows and low light encourage relaxed chats. The menu is limited, but we got off to a smashing start with sweet potato soup, sprinkled with nuts and packing subtle chile heat. Chef Dan Deaton, a native of Baton Rouge, gets extra points considering his minikitchen contains only two burners and a microwave. There are around 40 wines available by glass or bottle; we dug the Wolfgang Concerto Gruner-Veltliner, an exceptionally well-balanced white, and the ’04 Faust cabernet, a dry yet fruity red that worked well with creamier dishes like the crab and Brie, which was kind of like a Frenchified queso fundido. Pricing seems steep, but this is a comfortable place to lounge, and the owners are thinking hard about how to engineer a memorable and enjoyable wining-and-dining experience. —David Hammond

Couscous House 4626 W. Lawrence | 773-777-9801

$$ Moroccan | Dinner: seven days | BYO

Hadja Zohra, the mother of one of the partners of this Algerian restaurant in Mayfair, keeps watch over the kitchen, maintaining quality control on the small menu of couscous plates, kebabs, and mezes. A heaping plate of the fluffy steamed pasta arrives with carrots, potatoes, squash, zucchini, and lamb or chicken, along with an accompanying bowl of the cinnamony red gravy merka. There’s also a different tagine special each day. Simple, minimal, and decent enough, this place has been nearly empty each time I’ve been by. It deserves some love. —Mike Sula

El Cubanito 2555 N. Pulaski | 773-235-2555

$ Cuban | Breakfast, Lunch: seven days | Reservations not accepted

The menu at this teeny west-side shack is as limited as the cinder-block surroundings: Cuban, steak, and ropa vieja sandwiches plus a handful of breakfast-oriented options like ham and egg. The Cuban sandwich is the star, a classic mix of roast pork, smoky ham, Swiss cheese, yellow mustard, and sliced pickles on crusty Cuban bread. When pressed and toasted the various elements fuse into almost perfect balance. There’s room for about four people to eat on-site, squeezed on stools underneath black-and-white photos of Havana. Grab a can of Ironbeer—the sort of diluted, fruitier Dr. Pepper that touts itself as Cuba’s “national beverage”—and head for roomier environs. —Martha Bayne

El Huarachin Huarachon 3320 W. Lawrence | 773-267-3926

$ Mexican/Southwestern | Lunch, dinner: seven days | Cash only | BYO

George Ortiz didn’t name his new Albany Park restaurant after his nine-year-old place Quesadillas y Mariscos Dona Lolis because he didn’t want people to think he was starting a chain. But like the Rogers Park restaurant, quesadillas and huaraches are the game here, in addition to the familiar lineup of antojitos, little snacks like tacos, sopes, gorditas, pambasos, and tlacoyos, all made from fresh masa, ground and cooked at the mother ship. I got burned with some leathery old asada, but other toppings such as cactus with scrambled egg and a pork, mushroom, and poblano mixto are more durable and pretty tasty. The less common fillings that make Dona Lolis so notable (squash blossom, huitlacoche) are available, as is the house-made champurrado. —Mike Sula

Korean Seoulfood Cafe 560 W. Van Buren | 312-427-4293

$$ Asian, Korean | Lunch, dinner: seven days | Open late: Every night till 1:30

The name of Korean Seoulfood Cafe may pun on South Korea’s capital, but owner Dan Choi employs a cook from Jeonju, in the southwest of the country. There, the food is spicier, saltier, and generally more highly regarded than the rest of the nation’s-and here in Chicago the cook isn’t trying to coddle patrons with oversweetened glop. Chonju is the home of the ubiquitous rice dish bi bim bop, and at Seoulfood it’s available with chicken, shrimp, or pork as well as the more common beef. Like most items on the menu, it’s a mite pricier than what you’ll find on the northwest side. Then again, that’s where you’d otherwise have to go to find less common dishes like beo-sut jeon gol, a hot pot filled with chap chae and assorted mushrooms, or nak ji bok keum, broiled octopus with noodles and vegetables that’s usually eaten while the critter is still in its death throes (not here, unfortunately). A few panchan come with each order, including a salty-sour jalapeno kimchi I’d never seen before. The house cabbage kimchi is fresh and crisp, and though I prefer a bit more funk myself, it has a respectable burn. I like this place—even if some dishes are served in tinfoil containers like TV dinners, giving the impression of being held and reheated. —Mike Sula

Kudo Sushi 804 W. Washington | 312-850-9291

$$ Asian, Japanese | Lunch: Monday-Friday; Dinner: seven days | BYO

“Bargain sushi” is a notion that may strike fear into your heart, but Kudo Sushi delivers a decent deal on raw fish and a lot more. With sushi and sashimi going for around $2 a pop, maki rolls at $13 and under, and a BYOB policy to sweeten the deal, you can have an inexpensive evening dining in a room pleasantly decorated with elegant economy. That said, the Angry Dragon Roll with avocado and spicy salmon tasted like many others in the city and was somewhat hastily constructed (the chef took our order, made it, and huffed back). If you prefer your food cooked, Kudo offers seared jumbo sea scallops, albacore in ginger vinaigrette, and soft-shell crab with a champagne beurre blanc—all for $12. There’s also a grilled lamb chop in yuzu butter, a couple preparations of filet mignon, and a supporting cast of salads and soups. The place would be tough to think of it as a destination, but if you’re in the area, it’s a good choice and gentle on the wallet. —David Hammond

Mythos Greek Taverna 2030 W. Montrose | 773-334-2000

$$$ Greek, Mediterranean | Dinner: Sunday, Tuesday-Saturday | Closed Monday | BYO

For years people have been predicting that Greek food is headed for a renaissance, so I was hoping it was finally here when this BYOB double storefront opened in December. Early press suggested sister act Toni Di Meola and Vicky Zervas were dishing up lovingly prepared, unique specialties in a welcoming atmosphere far removed from the weary spectacle of Greektown tourist traps. But Lincoln Square is a something of a Little Greektown, and in its own way Mythos is just as theatrical, with the voluble Di Meola running the front of the house and Zervas making frequent appearances from the kitchen. While the food is certainly an improvement over Halsted—actual Greeks are eating here—I’m not joining the lovefest. A few things were very good: the loukaniko sausage (made by an off-site producer), fragrant with fennel and orange peel, is terrific, as are the garlicky tzatziki and the zucchini-and-cheese fritters, kolokytho keftedes, with a side of skordalia for schmearing. But most of the flesh I’ve tried—psaronefri, pork tenderloin in mustard sauce; Papou’s Tygania, pork chunks sauteed in white wine; mbiftekia feta, kind of a Greek cheeseburger, hold the bun—was brought out overcooked. Most tragically, a grouper baked in garlic butter was so thoroughly murdered that for all I know it might have been a river carp. The red snapper I ate on another occasion was treated little better. There’s been much ado about the made-to-order pastichio, essentially an unspectacular-tasting bowl of pasta and ground meat, with a hint of cinnamon. It’s just one of many dishes here that look good on paper, less so on the plate. —Mike Sula

The Rusty Armadillo Grill & Cantina 6154 N. Milwaukee | 773-792-8360

$$ Mexican/Southwestern | Lunch, dinner: seven days | Open late: Saturday till 3, Thursday-Friday till 2, other nights till midnight

One bite of the “Soon to Be Famous” fish tacos from Rusty Armadillo and we concluded that if Rick Bayless had committed unspeakable sins, he might be condemned to spend eternity eating these (we spoke plainly of this to our host, who graciously comped us). This tastefully appointed place is run by owners of nearby Jet’s Public House, who seem to believe that, as with taverns, restaurants are by-the-numbers operations, with customer satisfaction guaranteed by ample pours. Tortilla pizza was preposterously overloaded, causing the tortilla crust to disintegrate under the weight of toppings, rendering it impossible to serve let alone lift and eat. Chiles rellenos, flautas, and tamales arrived free of flavor. Black beans and rice were excellent, however—and that’s by no means to damn with faint praise. But you probably shouldn’t expect authenticity from a place touting 60-ounce margaritas. —David Hammond

Spertus Cafe 610 S. Michigan | 312-322-1700

$ Kosher/Jewish/Deli | Breakfast, Lunch: Sunday-Friday; Dinner: Monday-Thursday | Closed Saturday | Reservations not accepted

Come on, Wolf—not even a pizza? If you can pull it off at the airport and the MCA, and even invent Jewish Pizza for Spago, why not here? OK, so everything’s kosher, and the space overlooking the trees in Grant Park is architecturally pleasing, but aside from that this is a purely functional, phoned-in, shallow stab at celeb-chef branding offering only a soup of the day, a few unremarkable salads and sandwiches, some sweets, and not much else. I’m not sure what Puck contributed apart from his pasted mug on the carryout containers, or why this place requires the talents of a noted executive chef like Laura Frankel, who founded the kosher restaurant Shallots (now in Skokie) and authored her own kosher cookbook. Spertus donors could’ve saved a bundle without you, Wolf. —Mike Sula

Thai Urban Kitchen 500 W. Madison | 312-575-0266

$$ Thai | Lunch: Monday-Friday; Dinner: seven days | Saturday & Sunday brunch

Can there be a more depressing place downtown at 8 PM on Tuesday than this huge, modish, black-and-white echo chamber, devoid of diners, the Arcade Fire moaning on the sound system, and the sushi chef despondently slumped behind his fish case? That was the scene on my visit after the preopera crowd had departed. You’d think with the full attention of the kitchen the conceptually interesting if pricey Ameri-Thai fusion dishes would be perfectly executed. That’s what we hoped when our first appetizer arrived: a fresh, luscious tuna poke bonded with avocado and bathing in a tomato water bright and citrusy even in January. But the calamari with a gingery breading that followed appeared to have been rubberized in not-hot-enough oil, and the Kobe beef strips in a salad with too many raw red onions must have come from a tough old bastard that free ranged on tumbleweed and stinging nettles. Orange-glazed salmon in pineapple salsa was overcooked in defiance of a request for medium rare; roast duck breast in lychee curry was similarly snuffed. One of the only dishes to escape this abuse was Amish chicken with pearl onions, cashews, and roasted chiles, which had the natural texture and flavor you’d hope for. I’m tempted to assume such consistent overcooking is by perverted design, but that’s no more disturbing than the $12 tag on a single seared diver scallop (served on an admittedly delicious cauliflower puree). If you mark up a single shellfish that much it better have been frolicking with Sponge Bob that very morning, but it sure didn’t taste that way. Thai Urban Kitchen, from the folks behind Sura, serves a more straightforward and inexpensive Thai menu to mobs of office workers at lunchtime. I’ll take bets on how much longer they serve dinner. —Mike Sula

Thalia Spice 833 W. Chicago | 312-226-6020

$$ Asian, Japanese, Thai | Lunch: monday-Friday; Dinner: seven days | Open late: Friday & Saturday till 11 | BYO

Inheriting a space (and some cool twisted wire furnishings) from former restaurant and dance club Spice, Japanese-Thai BYO Thalia sprawls over two rooms with several cozy VIP chambers. Though we’re sometimes hesitant to chow down on raw fish at fusion places, we found the artfully arranged chirashi here freshly fine. Some Thai selections seemed dialed down, but when I gave our server the green light to make it real, seared tuna came out deliciously dressed with chiles and fish sauce; the owner’s Laotian mother works the kitchen and knows how to turn up the flavor. Green curry with pleasing chunks of eggplant and sweet pepper packed full-on Southeast Asian seasonings and good heat, and Thalia’s version of honey-marinated duck—something I haven’t noticed much on other Thai menus in Chicago—was full of tasty crunch. Even Thalia’s fusion creations—sake baby ribs, spicy salmon maki—show a commitment to fresh ingredients and honest flavors, so even if you’re skeptical of such offerings, as I am, get over yourself and enjoy. Prices are reasonable, with a three-course sushi lunch special (dumplings, soup, and six pieces of sushi or sashimi) for $14. —David Hammond

Uncommon Ground 1401 W. Devon | 773-465-9801

$$$ American Contemporary/Regional, Global/Fusion/Eclectic | Breakfast, lunch, dinner: seven days | Saturday & Sunday brunch | Open late: Friday & Saturday till 1, Monday-Thursday till midnight, Sunday till 11 | Reservations accepted for large groups only

It’s on a flat stretch of Devon in the old Speakeasy space, but somehow this new Rogers Park outpost of the Wrigleyville hangout Uncommon Ground has an Alpine feel—must be the fireplaces, upscale-rustic decor, and leather easy chairs. As at the original, the seasonal menu emphasizes locally produced, family farmed, and organic products including organic house-infused vodkas. (Order a “TreeTini”—­organic pear vodka, pear nectar, and Grand Marnier—and the restaurant claims it will plant a tree.) The menu’s eclectic and surprisingly carnivore-centric given the crunchy mantras: currently it’s pizza or pumpkin ravioli for you vegetarians interested in an entree. I tried the Mediterranean Trio—hummus, eggplant salad, and tzatziki served with pita and marinated olives—and while I was initially disconcerted by the fried pita chips, the dips were uniformly fresh and herbaceous. Duck confit quesadillas weren’t quite the hit out of the park they sounded like, but apart from the sweet potato salsa—the tuber’s too firm to work well in place of fruit—I can’t really fault them either, and there is that seasonal thing of course. Winter-appropriate large plates include cassoulet, bacon-wrapped meat loaf, a buffalo rib eye with Yukon Gold pommes frites, and a chorizo-stuffed chicken breast with chipotle-cheddar mashed potatoes. Breakfast and brunch (which is popular—remember those vodkas) feature standards like huevos and a breakfast burrito but also whole-wheat banana pancakes with organic Himalayan goji berry syrup and a breakfast melt with Nueske peppercorn bacon served on Red Hen black bread—I am so there. Most nights there’s live entertainment in a cozy, clubby adjoining room. —Kate Schmidt

Violet 3819 N. Southport | 773-32700234

$ American Contemporary/Regional, Coffee Shop | Breakfast, Lunch: seven days; Dinner: Monday-Friday | Reservations not accepted | BYO

It’s a good thing the chairs here are cushioned. The menu’s extensive, with creative twists on classics like grilled cheese (Brie with blueberry compote and mache on toasted sourdough) and build-your-own options for omelets and bagels, which combined with my small group’s tendency toward indecision caused us to linger for more than three hours over lunch. Fortunately, this Lakeview breakfast-and-lunch joint can also lay claim to at least one of the most patient waiters in the city. Even after we’d sent him away a ridiculous number of times without ordering, he was cheerful when asked to describe the oatmeal, or “deconstructed steel-cut oats,” a study in decadence that comes with fruit compote, dried fruit, nuts, chocolate bits, brown sugar, butter, and milk. He also recommended an excellent cranberry-orange French toast with bourbon creme anglaise and spiced pecans that caused my dining companion to exclaim “My nut is amazing!” after popping one in her mouth. The only hiccup in service came when she asked for butter with it; judging from how long it took to arrive, they may have had to churn it specially. And the Caesar salad, described as “a sourdough ‘doughnut’ crouton stuffed with a romaine wedge with white anchovies, Parmesan Reggiano and Caesar dressing,” looked like a small head of lettuce stuffed into a crouton napkin ring and was better in concept than in reality, proving tricky to eat. But the broccoli-and-white-cheddar soup and tomato bisque were perfectly seasoned, as were basics like breakfast potatoes. Too, why not stay three hours at a place with floor-to-ceiling windows and a fireplace? —Julia Thiel

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