Sweet Spots

Triple Threat

Cathay Rayhill, Alison Bower, and Lauren Pett of the Sweet Collective Rob Warner

September 28, 2007

Sweet Collective
5333 N. Lincoln
773-293-0888

Follow Lincoln Avenue several blocks north past Lincoln Square and you find yourself among eastern European shops and Korean barbecues—probably not the first place you’d think to look for high-end ice cream, truffles, and cake. The women behind Sweet Collective know that, but they’re hoping to be worth the trip.

Slated to open in early October, Sweet Collective is actually three businesses under one roof, sharing a small, clean white storefront with a single cash register and one table. Cathay Rayhill, operating as the Sugar Syndicate, makes cakes and miniature pastries. Lauren Pett, under the banner Rich Chocolates and Candies, is all about truffles. Alison Bower’s Ruth and Phil’s Gourmet Ice Cream produces high-end ice creams and sorbets. Though the businesses are legally separate, each woman says she’s prepared to sell and answer questions about the others’ creations.

Rayhill, 35, is the link between the other two. She went to the French Pastry School with Bower, 28, and while working at Vanille met Pett, also 28, who was an intern there. Rayhill started the Sugar Syndicate at the beginning of this year, and when a space that would accommodate all of them became available, it was, in Rayhill’s words, “do or die.” A fourth pastry chef, jam specialist Elizabeth Madden, was initially involved in the venture but decided to go it on her own.

They believe their arrangement allows each woman to focus on what she does best. “I hate decorating cakes,” Pett says. “I only want to do chocolates and candies.” Also, keeping the companies distinct minimizes their collective risk: each is on her own.

Rayhill’s cakes show a strong creative streak—she clearly loves a challenge. She’s done a cake that looks like a salad as well as a lineup of cakes decorated to resemble Starbucks cups for a caffeine fiend. Pett says one of her favorite projects was a cake that looked like a sewing basket, complete with balls of yarn and an embroidery hoop.

Bower’s ice cream goes way beyond vanilla—her more sophisticated flavors include a blueberry-chardonnay, a red wine-raspberry, and a Jack Daniel’s-chocolate sorbet. But she’s also done kid pleasers such as banana-chocolate and cherry-lime, and she plans to include good old chocolate and vanilla in the dozen or so varieties she’ll stock in the freezer case.

Pett sees herself providing “an upscale candy store for grown-ups.” Her chocolates include a collection based on Chicago neighborhoods: the Chinatown truffle combines dark chocolate, orange, and sesame; the Devon Street is milk chocolate infused with garam masala. The Gold Coast truffle is “a little tongue-in-cheek”: champagne and dark chocolate dusted with edible gold. She also does truffles based on classic desserts, including a bananas Foster, a pecan pie, and a German chocolate cake.

Pett says that operating as a collective gives the three entrepreneurs “an instant, built-in support system.” They hope to go beyond walk-in traffic to bring in wholesale business—from restaurants, wedding planners, and gourmet shops, for example. And the collective helps them out psychologically as well as financially. Says Rayhill, “I can’t imagine doing this on my own.” —Daniel Shumski

For more on restaurants, see our blog the Food Chain.

In the Neighborhood

Lincoln Square

Bad Dog Tavern
4535 N. Lincoln | 773-334-4040

F 7.6 | S 7.5 | A 7.9 | $$$ (21 reports)
BAR/LOUNGE, AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY/ REGIONAL | LUNCH: SUNDAY, TUESDAY-SATURDAY; DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: SATURDAY TILL 3, OTHER NIGHTS TILL 2

The global- fusion- meets- contemporary- American menu at this sleek room is several cuts above bar food. An order of tempura-style green beans comes with a lime-ginger-soy dipping sauce. There are pizzas with classic toppings, but sandwiches and salads get interesting twists: blackened salmon, for example, comes on a crusty baguette with pickled red onion, bitter greens, and cucumber-dill mayo. Entrees include chicken breasts and feta over a bed of spinach and an herb-marinated pork tenderloin served with garlic mashed potatoes. The multiple choices on tap include Delirium Tremens; the kitchen stays open till 1 on Friday and Saturday, other nights till 11. Laura Levy Shatkin

Barba Yianni Grecian Taverna
4761 N. Lincoln | 773-878-6400

F 6.3 | S 6.8 | A 7.6 | $ (5 reports)
GREEK, MEDITERRANEAN | LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 2, OTHER NIGHTS TILL MIDNIGHT

Evenings here can be very quiet midweek (and even sometimes on the weekends), but the bar is usually full of local men in their 50s. This is a good place to try Greek wines with traditional cuisine. Egg-lemon soup is a highlight, as is the skordalia, mashed potatoes prepared with lemon juice, olive oil, and garlic; also served are a very good spanakopita, great kebabs, thin-cut lamb chops, and delicious moussaka. Portions are large enough to share, and the food is comforting and satisfying; servers are pleasant but sometimes forgetful. Emma Krasov, Rater

Bistro Campagne
4518 N. Lincoln | 773-271-6100

F 8.2 | S 7.8 | A 8.0 | $$$ (30 reports)
FRENCH | DINNER: SEVEN DAYS

There's nothing groundbreaking here, but Bistro Campagne remains a reliable choice for classic French fare. The kitchen places a premium on organic ingredients; even the wine list has several bottles from sustainably farmed vineyards. The menu offers bistro standards such as French onion soup and mussels; entrees include steak frites and rotating preparations of lamb and duck. Escargots, delivered spitting hot, are prepared with a garlic-Pernod butter and a liberal dusting of bread crumbs for a sort of "snails casino" effect. Roast chicken, crispy on the outside and juicy within, was served over a bed of rich mushroom ragout and topped with a crazy blossom of fried onion. For dessert there's a creamy creme brulee, pot au chocolat, house-made ice cream and sorbet, or perhaps a seasonal tart. The cozy, Prairie-inflected dining rooms are comfortable and inviting. Martha Bayne

La Bocca Della Verita
4618 N. Lincoln | 773-784-6222

F 7.7 | S 7.7 | A 6.2 | $$$ (22 reports)
ITALIAN | DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 11

The decor at this reasonably priced Italian restaurant is homey rather than hip -- and that's what its fans love about it. La Bocca is simply a casual place to get a very good Italian meal. We took the waiter's recommendation and ordered the special chicken dish of the night -- lightly breaded and served with a refreshing blend of arugula and vegetables -- and the duck-stuffed ravioli in a savory tomato cream sauce; both were excellent. But there's a lot more to try: close to 20 appetizers including celery-apple and fennel salads, homemade pastas, and entrees such as a whole branzino, not a fish you see very often. A sidewalk cafe provides extra seating in warm weather. Rachel Klein, Rater

Brioso
4603 N. Lincoln | 773-989-9000

F 7.3 | S 7.5 | A 7.2 | $$ (12 reports)
MEXICAN/SOUTHWESTERN, AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY/REGIONAL | DINNER: SUNDAY, TUESDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED MONDAY | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 11

"Brioso has always been more of an interesting alternative to your run-of-the-mill neighborhood Mexican joints than actual fine dining," says one Rater. That's not to say it can't be satisfying, and it does have its aspirations. Salads and starters include a decent ceviche, spicy tuna tartare, and a chipotle Caesar. Entrees include a free-range chicken breast served with red rice and a grilled-vegetable salsa, grilled sea scallops, and chile-glazed salmon. Everything was very good -- especially the chicken -- and presented with a gloss of professionalism. Desserts are well worth trying, with the banana cream pie singled out for special praise. Chip Dudley

Cafe Selmarie
4729 N. Lincoln | 773-989-5595

F 7.9 | S 7.2 | A 7.4 | $ (17 reports)
AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY/REGIONAL, GLOBAL/FUSION/ECLECTIC | BREAKFAST: TUESDAY-SATURDAY; LUNCH: MONDAY-SATURDAY; DINNER: SUNDAY, TUESDAY-SATURDAY; SUNDAY BRUNCH | RESERVATIONS ACCEPTED FOR LARGE GROUPS ONLY

Nestled in a plaza off Lincoln Square, this cozy bakery has grown into a small gem of a contemporary American restaurant that's popular for its weekend breakfasts and pleasant, uncomplicated dinner specials. The charming dining room features large windows overlooking the plaza, which accommodates outdoor dining in the summer. The menu is small but well-rounded, offering choices to suit a range of tastes. Fish specials are reliable, as are the homemade soups and salad dressings and, at breakfast, the multigrain pancakes with loads of fresh fruit. Desserts -- delectable creations like raspberry Bavarian cream torte and orange flourless chocolate cake -- remain stellar. The bakery is best known for cakes (including the wedding variety), but other sweets worth stopping in for include the banana eclairs, assorted muffins, kolackies and other cookies, and the Rater-recommended rum balls. Laura Levy Shatkin

Celtic Crown
4301 N. Western | 773-588-1110

F 5.2 | S 4.4 | A 8.0 | $ (5 reports)
BAR/LOUNGE, ENGLISH/IRISH/SCOTTISH | LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: SATURDAY TILL 3, OTHER NIGHTS TILL 2

Irish pubs are everywhere, yet new ones are constantly cropping up. It's perplexing-when's the last time you heard someone say, "Damn, if only they'd open an Irish pub in my neighborhood, then things would really take off"? But Celtic Crown has carved out a nice little niche for itself in a crowded landscape. There are three bars with distinct personalities, so if you get tired of the action on the main floor (the most sports-bar-like environment) you can just head up- or downstairs and find yourself in a dark, intimate room or a quiet, spacious one with a pool table. The menu lists the usual mix of salads, sandwiches, a few higher-priced dinner options like strip steaks and barbecued ribs, and Guinness-infused edibles. The Reuben had piles of very thin-sliced lean corned beef, sauerkraut, and dressing on great-tasting rye bread. The Crown outdoes most burger suppliers in town simply by serving hamburgers on real buns -- ones that don't break down two bites into your meal. The burger I got, cooked medium rare, was stalwart, maintaining its integrity to the very end even though it was loaded down with hickory sauce, ketchup, and a decent amount of burger juice. The fries were not good, but hey, they've also got tater tots and they were perfect. Best of all, prices are reasonable -- more so than, say, those at the Grafton a few blocks northeast. Chip Dudley

Chicago Brauhaus
4732 N. Lincoln | 773-784-4444

F 6.3 | S 6.9 | A 6.9 | $$ (9 reports)
GERMAN/AUSTRIAN, BAR/LOUNGE | LUNCH, DINNER: SUNDAY-MONDAY, WEDNESDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED TUESDAY | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 2; SUNDAY-MONDAY, WEDNESDAY-THURSDAY TILL MIDNIGHT

Located in the heart of "German village," Chicago Brauhaus serves arguably the best German food in town. Massive wooden tables and chairs and folksy decorations create a Bavarian atmosphere, enhanced nightly by a live band in Tyrolean costume. Motherly waitresses promptly accommodate parties of any size, and big family gatherings are common here. Appetizers are hearty: there's Bismarck herring, a thin, flavorful marinated fillet in fresh sour cream with a boiled potato on the side, and steak tartare with all the trimmings -- anchovies, raw onions, capers. Liver dumpling soup is a must. If you can squeeze in a main course after all this, try a beef roll or the pork shank with sauerkraut. Beers come both micro- and macrobrewed; there's also a full bar. An enjoyable and satisfying experience, especially on a cold winter night. Street parking is tough but feasible. Emma Krasov, Rater

Cho Sun Ok Restaurant
4200 N. Lincoln | 773-549-5555

F 7.2 | S 5.8 | A 6.8 | $ (8 reports)
ASIAN, KOREAN | LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS

Woo Bok Lee opened his restaurant in 1979, and it stands today as the oldest operating Korean restaurant in the city. People still line up nightly at the door for a table in the tight, smoky room, where the specialties are five varieties of naengmyeon (buckwheat noodles) and "stone pan cooking." The latter (for two or more people) involves gas burners on the table fueling a heavy stone griddle upon which a variety of seasoned meats are seared -- octopus, beef, tripe, or a combination. Marinated vegetables and steamed rice (or noodles) are then cooked in the rendered juices, the rice crisps on the pan, and the resulting fabric-penetrating aromas can be whiffed down the block. Originally a North Korean specialty, naengmyeon are served cold and slippery, a bracing refreshment in hot weather, usually in light beef broth garnished with slivered cucumber or radish, hard-boiled egg, mustard, and red pepper paste. I prefer the two "dry" variations served here with hot sauce, one topped with raw, chewy skate. Unfortunately barbecue orders don't include lettuce to wrap the meat, and the varieties of panchan are fewer -- and in some cases less aggressively seasoned -- than those in other Korean barbecue houses. Perhaps because Cho Sun Ok is so venerable the crowds forgive it. Mike Sula

Daily Bar & Grill
4560 N. Lincoln | 773-561-6198

$$
BAR/LOUNGE, AMERICAN | LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: SATURDAY TILL 3, OTHER NIGHTS TILL 2 | RESERVATIONS NOT ACCEPTED

This onetime neighborhood favorite, which somehow managed to be both hip and homey, has been retooled, apparently to attract the younger crowd moving into Lincoln Square. Nothing has been changed beyond recognition, but the room is sleeker, the music's louder, and two big TVs hang over the bar. Chicken wings have replaced grilled salmon and pasta specials, but some items from the old menu remain, including pizzas, sandwiches, salads, and a couple comfort-food entrees. The swank upstairs Parlor Room -- once a private apartment -- has red velvet curtains and leather couches and can accommodate 50 people for private parties, and there's a large outdoor seating area. The kitchen stays open till 11 Monday through Saturday. Michael Lenehan

Erba
4520 N. Lincoln | 773-989-4200

$$$
ITALIAN | DINNER: SUNDAY, TUESDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED MONDAY | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 11

Erba, the "urban Italian" restaurant from the owners of nearby Brioso, is sleek and dark, with the barest hints of decoration; the menu's equally spare. Choices include a variety of homemade pastas, among them "discombobulated lasagna," and larger plates like herb-crusted rib eye, roasted pork loin, and sea scallops served, according to the menu, with "expensive olive oil." On a recent visit my companion and I started with bruschetta topped with rapini, grape tomatoes, basil, and pecorino Romano; our other appetizer, a special of prosciutto with asparagus, Parmesan, and white truffle oil, was delicious. Our entrees -- pesto-and-goat-cheese gnocchi that oozed flavor and a fillet of wild-caught salmon served on a warm fennel-and-tangerine salad -- were gorgeous and packed with character. Dessert brings well-executed classics like tiramisu and crostata. The wine list is reasonably priced, with a wide range available by the glass. Chip Dudley

Essence of India
4601 N. Lincoln | 773-506-0002

F 6.7 | S 6.6 | A 7.0 | $$$ (18 reports)
INDIAN/PAKISTANI | LUNCH: FRIDAY-SUNDAY; DINNER: SUNDAY-MONDAY, WEDNESDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED TUESDAY | RESERVATIONS NOT ACCEPTED

The kitchen and service at this Lincoln Square restaurant run like a well-oiled machine. Vegetable pakoras came hot enough to burn our hands; the filling was savory and subtle. Another commendable appetizer was the jhinga karahi: deep-fried shrimp marinated in spiced vinegar and lemon juice. Our entrees were mild but toothsome: the gosht korma (bone-bracketed cubes of top-quality lamb in a saffron sauce) was rich and deep; so, in an entirely distinct way, was the murgh tikka masala (chicken in an herbed cream sauce). For dessert, the gulab jamun were just OK -- cakey instead of curdy -- but the rasmalai (cheese dumplings poached in sweetened milk) were disgustingly good. Prices are reasonable and portions substantially bigger than at comparable places on Devon. The lunch buffet, sampled on another occasion, was disappointing only in relation to our excellent dinner. Cliff Doerksen

Fiddlehead Cafe
4600 N. Lincoln | 773-751-1500

F 6.9 | S 7.1 | A 6.0 | $$$ (7 reports)
AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY/REGIONAL | DINNER: SUNDAY, TUESDAY-SATURDAY; SATURDAY & SUNDAY BRUNCH | CLOSED MONDAY | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 11

The kitchen at this casual, warm, wine-centric cafe offers a range of global appetizers and spiffed-up bistro standards like the signature three-way steak frites, served with russet, sweet potato, and polenta fries. The menu changes seasonally, but there are certain mainstays -- roasted garlic hummus, seared ahi tuna. A tempting current appetizer is a flatbread with fresh figs, caramelized shallots, and goat cheese. Entrees include a Berkshire pork shank and seared grouper served with braised leeks and honey-glazed red potatoes. Fiddlehead Cafe was recently recognized by Wine Spectator, and with a wine list of more than 350 bottles plus a couple dozen reds, whites, and bubblies available by the glass or in flights of three, it's hard to go wrong. But to get to a knockout like a 2004 cab-merlot-Syrah blend from Washington State's Hedges winery, you have to first figure out how to interpret the cutesy little icons that indicate traits like "dry," "complex," "berries," or "oaky." Still, to a person the staff at my last visit was unflaggingly friendly, and a French cheese flight really soared. The restaurant will reopen for dinner on Mondays beginning October 15. Martha Bayne

42 Degrees N. Latitude
4500 N. Lincoln | 773-907-2226

F 7.3 | S 7.7 | A 8.0 | $$ (6 reports)
AMERICAN, BAR/LOUNGE | DINNER: SEVEN DAYS; SATURDAY & SUNDAY BRUNCH | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 2, SUNDAY-THURSDAY TILL MIDNIGHT

42 Degrees N. Latitude calls itself a "kitchen and bar," but it feels a lot like a restaurant: comfy booths and tables surrounded by dark wood and brick. Everything we tried was terrific, including a house-made dessert, a just-sweet-enough, melt-in-your-mouth apple pie with the flakiest crust this side of my mom's kitchen. The menu has a selection of different-sized plates and appetizers, all very fresh and mostly not fried, such as pita wedges with carrots, cucumber, and a trio of dips, the best of which was a piquant mixture of red pepper and feta. Unlike the dry, ricey patties that pass for veggie burgers all over town, the black bean burger here had nice texture and bite. The marinated strip steak, perfectly cooked and topped with shaved and lightly battered fried onions, was tender as can be. My companion -- a french-fry aficionado -- and I agreed that the steak fries are the best we've ever had, partly because of the savory dusting of what we suspected was Parmesan mixed with coarse salt. The service is great and the bar well stocked. Jen Johnson

Garcia's Mexican Restaurant
4749 N. Western | 773-769-5600

F 6.1 | S 6.0 | A 5.8 | $ (11 reports)
MEXICAN/SOUTHWESTERN | LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: SATURDAY TILL 4, FRIDAY TILL 3, MONDAY-THURSDAY TILL 1, SUNDAY TILL MIDNIGHT | RESERVATIONS NOT ACCEPTED

Reasonably priced and family friendly, this Lincoln Square Mexican eatery presents absolutely no surprises, but its local popularity is entirely understandable. Beginning with the margaritas, everything we tried gave honest weight, including the caldo de camaron (shrimp soup with vegetables), milanesa (breaded steak), bistec a la Mexicana (diced steak in tomato sauce), beef tongue taco, chicken in mole sauce, and pastel de tres leches. Service was friendly and efficient, the ambience loud and happy, the portions Brobdingnagian. Cliff Doerksen

Glunz Bavarian Haus
4128 N. Lincoln | 773-472-4287

F 7.5 | S 8.0 | A 7.2 | $$$ (5 reports)
GERMAN/AUSTRIAN, BAR/LOUNGE | LUNCH, DINNER: SUNDAY, TUESDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED MONDAY | OPEN LATE: SUNDAY, TUESDAY-SATURDAY TILL 2

This fairly high-end German-Austrian restaurant is anchored by alcohol, with 12 beers available on tap, 20 more by the bottle, and a selection of wine drinks including May wine produced by the Glunz family (owners of the Old Town wine store House of Glunz since 1888). The bar's ambience spills over into the dining section -- complete with Hofbrauhaus chairs and silly, gilt-framed paintings of castles and flower arrangements -- and the patio alike. The menu is small but classic: soups, sausages (Thuringer, bratwurst, weisswurst, the last mild and delicious), and entrees of Wiener schnitzel, duck, pork, and roast chicken, all with the proper German accompaniments. Weekly specials offer some non-German choices; one week they included lamb, veal cordon bleu, and a buttery sea bass over a delicious, chewy white-wine risotto with crisp fresh broccoli. The food is a step above other local German restaurants, and on our visit, at least, there was an authentic air to Glunz, and not in a planned-to-the-micrometer Lettuce way; maybe it was the cheroot fumes, the pile of hard-drinking men at the front, the occasional blast of oompah music, or the gemutlichkeit of owner Jim Glunz, who came by to see how our meal was. Elizabeth M. Tamny

Nhu Lan Bakery
2612 W. Lawrence | 773-878-9898

$
ASIAN, VIETNAMESE | BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER: SUNDAY-MONDAY, WEDNESDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED TUESDAY | RESERVATIONS NOT ACCEPTED

Banh mi, the miraculous French-inspired Vietnamese sub, has an assured place in the Sandwich Hall of Fame as a classic example of cross-cultural pollination. Cheap, fresh, and filling, it's something that should be available on every corner -- but isn't. Nhu Lan Bakery, a Vietnamese bakery in Lincoln Square, is a pioneer, striking out relatively far from the Broadway/Argyle intersection. It's a risky business plan, but a treasure for the neighborhood. Demi baguettes are baked fresh daily to cradle nine different fillings (only five were available on my last visit), typically accented by pickled, julienned carrot and daikon, cucumbers, mayo, cilantro, thinly sliced jalapenos, and dressed with spicy-sweet nuoc cham, a potent fish sauce. Among my favorites is the "special," a meat-lover's sub with a schmear of rich pat, headcheese, ham, and a fried pork sausage called cha hue. The ham banh mi is piled with jambon and a generous wipe of pat, a simpler version that highlights the textural contrast between the two. There's also a meatball filling, sweet and messy like a sloppy joe; a lemony shredded chicken; grilled pork; and an all-vegetable variety filled with undressed breaded, fried, dry vegetable matter; the only one I can't recommend, it's exactly the sort of thing that gives vegetarian diets a bad name. A large selection of Vietnamese snacks is available for takeaway: spring rolls, yellow house-made mayo, Western pastries, and a rotating variety of sweet rice and pudding desserts in challenging flavors -- corn, mung bean, sweet potato, sausage. You can take away vacuum-sealed sausage, pat, ham, and headcheese too. Mike Sula

Los Nopales
4544 N. Western | 773-334-3149

F 7.3 | S 7.3 | A 6.0 $$ (14 reports)
MEXICAN/SOUTHWESTERN | LUNCH, DINNER: SUNDAY, TUESDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED MONDAY | BYO

The grilled tilapia tacos at this low-key storefront are so good, so bright and fresh, that at these prices -- $8.95 for three tacos, rice, and beans -- it seems like you're stealing. Tangy ceviche with tilapia and shrimp has a splash of orange juice, which adds an appealing sweet aftertaste; tortilla chips come served with two salsas, one made of tomatillos blended with avocado, making it creamier than the standard green sauce, the other a thick, spicy combination of chile de arbol and fruit. My entree was grilled pork tenderloin with an aromatic sauce flavored with guajillo and chile de arbol and a side of cactus salad (nopales means "prickly pears"). There are notable specials weekly -- for example, enchiladas Michoacanas. The sweet, rich coffee flan we finished with was also a special -- one of the exceptionally friendly owners told us the chef, her husband, is constantly experimenting. That's the kind of thing you'd expect at a place far more swank; to find it in a modest storefront is beguiling. Chip Dudley

Opart Thai House
4658 N. Western | 773-989-8517

F 8.1 | S 7.4 | A 7.0 | $ (14 reports)
ASIAN, THAI | LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 11 | BYO | SMOKE FREE

Of the dozens of Thai storefronts dotting Chicago neighborhoods, some are good, most are not, and only a few stand out. Opart Thai House in Lincoln Square is one of those few. With more than 100 items on the menu, it offers the gamut of flavors, from sweet to kick-ass spicy, and a huge variety of ingredients. Appetizers include three versions of charbroiled beef with spicy Thai sauces (the Tiger Cry is a must), along with crispy sweet-and-sour mee krob, spring rolls, and satay. Salads (larb, nam sod, and green papaya, among others) are meals in themselves. The many curry, noodle, and rice dishes are sauteed or stir-fried with seafood, poultry, beef, or one of endless combinations of fresh vegetables and sauces. Some tasty favorites include pad king (sauteed ginger, onions, mushrooms, and pea pods), pad kra praow (sauteed basil, hot peppers, and garlic over rice), and seafood with green and white onions. Desserts aren't much and there's no bar, but there is a liquor store right next door. A takeout-and-delivery-only location near Old Orchard (143 Skokie Blvd., Wilmette, 847-853-9898) offers too-mild versions of some dishes at slightly higher prices. Paul Schoenwetter, Rater

Pizza D.O.C.
2251 W. Lawrence | 773-784-8777

F 7.6 | S 6.9 | A 6.6 | $$ (35 reports)
ITALIAN, PIZZA | LUNCH: SATURDAY-SUNDAY; DINNER: SEVEN DAYS

Cesare D'Ortenzi (La Bocca Della Verita) and Lucia Mazzocchetti named their restaurant after the stamp of approval given to Italian wine, cheese, and other culinary products of verifiably high quality, and they hold their own food to the same exacting standards. Pizza crusts are rolled thin with a dowel and topped with combinations of tomato, mozzarella, artichoke, porcini, and even ham and egg, then cooked in a wood-burning oven. For heartier appetites there's a variety of pasta dishes (the gnocchiti al formaggi incorporates mascarpone, Parmesan, and blue cheese), a porcini risotto, and specials that might include Cornish hen or osso buco alla Milanese. Tasteful black-and-white photos of Roman ruins hang on the walls, and a few large feathery plants soften things up. This place blows away the majority of Italian-American restaurants that call themselves authentic. There's a sister location, Trattoria D.O.C., at 706 Main in Evanston. Laura Levy Shatkin

Rockwell's Neighborhood Grill
4632 N. Rockwell | 773-509-1871

$
AMERICAN, MEXICAN/SOUTHWESTERN, BAR/LOUNGE | BREAKFAST, LUNCH: SATURDAY-SUNDAY; DINNER: SEVEN DAYS; SATURDAY & SUNDAY BRUNCH | RESERVATIONS NOT ACCEPTED

The game's on TV at this friendly neighborhood tavern and restaurant, a couple of senior women are having dinner by the window, and a dad is enjoying a beer and a few minutes' peace while junior tends to his grilled cheese sandwich. The menu won't surprise anyone -- burgers, a smoked turkey club, a French dip sandwich, Caesar salad, burritos, fajitas, and a few higher-end items like salmon -- but the food is fresh and flavorful. A cup of the chicken-sausage gumbo was hot, savory, and chock-full of chicken and sausage; the hand-cut fries were the real thing, tasting of good potatoes rather than deep-fryer fat. We ordered the ten-ounce sirloin rare and it actually came that way, which is rare indeed. Portions were enormous, the coffee delicious, the service friendly and conscientious. Entree prices range between $7.50 for the burger to $14.95 for a strip steak special. The outdoor seating area on Eastwood looks out on a nice residential street with a few handsome bungalows. Michael Lenehan

Spoon
4608 N. Western | 773-769-1173

F 8.1 | S 7.8 | A 6.3 | $ (18 reports)
ASIAN, THAI | LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | BYO

It's not like there's been a revolution against boring Thai food in Chicago, but there's certainly a healthy resistance, and it was born in Chai and Vanna Gumtrontip's little Lincoln Square restaurant. Spoon was the first place in the city willing to serve authentic, fully flavored Thai food to non-Thais. It began in the summer of '03 with the discovery of the Thai-language "secret menu" by a handful of obsessive chowhounds, who had it translated and began plumbing the depths of its aggressive, brilliantly seasoned dishes. Word spread, and though waitstaff sometimes had a hard time believing that non-Thais had the stomach for the real stuff (some servers still do), eventually they stopped blinking and began relinquishing funky Issan sausage, rich boat noodles, banana blossom salad, one-bite salad, incendiary papaya salad sprinkled with dried shrimp or pickled crab, and the miraculous Thai-style fried chicken (kai thawt), deeply penetrated with lemongrassy, peppery flavors and served with a tamarind dipping sauce. I'm a long way from navigating the depths of this vast repertoire, but so far some of my favorite items are naem khao thawt, a tangy, crispy fried rice salad with peanuts, cilantro, and pressed ham; phat phrik sa-taw muu sap, minced pork and bitter beans; and Issan-style minced duck salad. Mike Sula

Tank Sushi
4514 N. Lincoln | 773-769-2600

F 8.6 | S 7.7 | A 7.0 | $$$ (24 reports)
JAPANESE | LUNCH: SATURDAY-SUNDAY; DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 11:30

Tank's formula -- sleek contemporary space, clubby background music, signature cocktails -- has been done before. But it still feels welcoming and casual enough for the neighborhood folkies and hippiesters. Many of the sushi combinations nod to tropical climes: the Green Island roll comes with spicy coconut mayonnaise, the Tropic Thunder is adorned with a thin slice of mango, the Latin Heat (superwhite tuna and smoked salmon with avocado) sports cilantro and a healthy slice of jalapeno. We loved the Ocean Sundae roll (shrimp tempura, cream cheese, avocado, and an embarrassment of sauces, mayos, and other adornments), with its combination of sweet and spicy flavors and creamy and crunchy textures. The maki menu also features an unusual number of vegetarian rolls including kampyo, marinated gourd with sesame seeds, and a shiitake roll with sweet ginger soy and sesame seeds. The veggie tempura roll was a disappointment -- there wasn't a crumb of tempura crunch in sight. We fared better with the avocado tempura roll, with silky avocado, asparagus, and daikon sprouts, although we couldn't find the tempura here either. Kathie Bergquist

Trattoria Trullo
4767 N. Lincoln | 773-506-0093

$$$
ITALIAN | LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL MIDNIGHT, OTHER NIGHTS TILL 11 | RESERVATIONS ACCEPTED FOR LARGE GROUPS ONLY

Giovanni de Nigris moved his Evanston trattoria into the abandoned kiddie-playground G.P. Franklin's but continues to specialize in the food of Puglia, with the specialties of the region helpfully denoted on the menu. Grilled mixed seafood over white beans and rapini in a slightly peppery oil might have been an auspicious start if it had spent any recent quality time with a heat source. (In fact, this was a recurring problem with nearly everything ordered on a busy Thursday night.) One Pugliese dish, eggplant stuffed with spinach and bread crumbs, was dull and mushy, but pasta courses showed more promise, like the ur-Pugliese orecchiette with rapini and ziti with white bean puree. Secondi were good enough but overshadowed by their accompaniments -- a competently cooked halibut fillet was perched on a terrific, slightly tomatoey carnaroli risotto and a cheese-blanketed veal scallopini couldn't stand up to the simple, perfectly cooked summer vegetables on the side. The wine list is heavy on Pugliese reds, and there's a deli case and retail operation in the front of the house that stocks cheeses, olives, pastas, and oils for takeaway. Mike Sula

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