Walleye ceviche and seared coriander-chile-crusted tuna at Mexx Kitchen at the Whiskey Rob Warner

August 31, 2007

Mexx Kitchen at the Whiskey
1015 N. Rush
312-475-0300

If star chef Richard Sandoval of Modern Mexican -- the group behind luxe neuvo Latino restaurants such as New York's Maya and Pampano and Las Vegas's Isla -- hadn't collaborated on MEXX KITCHEN AT THE WHISKEY, no one would pay much attention to the cozy folk-art-decorated room tucked behind Rush Street's see-and-be-seen Whiskey Bar. And even though the press has taken notice of the food, drinks and quick bites seemed to be what the handful of businessmen, tourists, and locals wanted on my visit. Problem is, Mexx Kitchen has an identity crisis. Servers are fine with beverages -- many tequilas, margaritas (decent, not great), cocktails (skip the misguided mango-mint mojito), and beers -- but less adept at pacing meals. The menu is divided between marginally upscale renditions of Mexican favorites and much more sophisticated fare. Well-balanced guacamole with crisp chips would be at home in a neighborhood spot, as would chilorio sopes brimming with pulled pork, queso cotija, chopped lettuce, tomato, and crema fresco. Walleye ceviche swimming in guava-citrus sauce with diced watermelon, jicama, and mint was a refreshing alternative to everyday tomato-based versions. On the other hand, a trio of too-fragile, extremely salty Mexico City-style steak tacos made me wonder why I was spending $10 for what would cost half that at my local taqueria (where they have the sense to double up on the corn tortillas). The highlights came from the more sophisticated camp: creamy balsamic-painted roasted corn soup with a huitlacoche dumpling and a picture-perfect entree of seared coriander-chile-crusted tuna slices propped up around mashed boniato on a hibiscus-blood orange-habanero emulsion. Flaky banana dessert empanadas were fun but anticlimactic. —Anne Spiselman

The Bluebird Bistro & Wine Bar
1749 N. Damen
773-486-2473

Want some bacon with your porchetta? On the menu at the BLUEBIRD BISTRO & WINE BAR, a new late-night lounge/wine bar/gastropub from the owners of Webster's Wine Bar, it's hard to find anything not spiked with smoked pig. An otherwise relatively sane addition to the nightlife corridor stretching up Damen from the Wicker Park crotch, Bluebird's a pleasantly understated space, outfitted in a sort of rustic-minimalist vein, with tables made from old wine casks and stools reminiscent of high school chem lab. On a Sunday night at least, it's a nice mellow scene. For the most part the starters are great -- lots of cured meats and funky cheeses, salads, flatbreads, and so on. The classic frites, simultaneously crispy and floppy and served with little cups of addictive curried ketchup and garlic aioli, are no-brainer perfection. But a crab salad with arugula and watercress was bland (except for the bacon bits), and heartier main plates were a mixed bag. There's a satisfying bowl of beer-braised rabbit with shallots, mushrooms, and (surprise) bacon over fettucine. But a flap steak with marrow butter and parsley toasts was pretty undistinguished, and the brined and smoked "baconed pork chop" tasted of nothing but smoke and salt -- though maybe my taste buds were just numb by then. The wine list is organized by "climate" -- IMHO a fairly useless conceit -- but the by-the-glass options we tried were excellent. The extensive beer list is heavy on the Belgians and sophisticated enough to justify one more appendage to the official name of the place. —Martha Bayne

CJ's Eatery
3839 W. Grand
773-292-0990

Bright, spacious, and friendly CJ'S EATERY might do for west Humboldt Park what the original Wishbone did for another desolate stretch of Grand Avenue in the 90s: grow into a vital community hub while serving solid southern and soul-inspired comfort food. Charles Armstead and Vanessa Perez have filled a couple deep voids already, providing a Lavazza-dispensing coffee bar and sit-down table service for three squares in a neighborhood where the only other viable eats are at Jimmy's Red Hots around the corner. Breakfast is a steal: an egg-and-chorizo burrito or biscuits and gravy are just $3.50; French toast and a hangover-blanketing sausage casserole don't go much higher. Sandwiches predominate at lunch, along with a few entrees (barbecued pork steak, four-cheese mac), soups, salads, and a handful of appetizers (crab cakes, spinach dip) that pull a double shift at dinner. Entrees include a chile-rubbed sirloin with southern-fried corn and a "BBQ Meatloaf Tower" crowned with mashed potatoes and fried onions. At a recent lazy Sunday brunch, carb loading was accomplished with a special of shrimp and creamy grits and a banana bread pudding with peanut butter creme anglaise that could've raised Elvis off the bathroom floor. —Mike Sula

Closed
Allen's: The New American Cafe | 217 W. Huron
Scylla | 1952 N. Damen

For more on restaurants, see our blog the Food Chain.

What Else Is New

Twenty-one more recent openings

African Harambee
7537 N. Clark | 773-764-2200

$$
AFRICAN | LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 11 | RESERVATIONS ACCEPTED FOR LARGE GROUPS ONLY

Harambee, the motto of Kenya, means "pulling together," and at this far-north-side pan-African restaurant, owner Sisay Abebe (formerly of Ethiopian Diamond) pulls together dishes from all over the continent. It's an intriguing concept, but for the most part the attempt to corral these distinct cuisines seems to have resulted in taming them down. We started with African Summer Rolls, the only appetizer apart from soup or salad. Cigar-shaped egg-roll skins stuffed with mildly spiced beef, they disappointed texturally -- I prefer the more delicate pastry triangles used in traditional sambusas. Moving on to the meat portion of the menu (there are also seafood and vegetarian sections), we opted for the jollof rice, a dish called "spinach meat" (your choice of beef, lamb, or chicken with potatoes, carrots, and spinach in a tahini sauce), and the sleeper hit of the evening, a delicious dried fruit curry with lamb. Entrees come with your choice of rice, couscous, injera, chapati, or ugali, a cornmeal mush common in East Africa. The injera, served rolled into bundles on a small plate, was especially good -- it's made with teff, a tiny grain indigenous to Ethiopia; many restaurants substitute farina. African Harambee also serves African beers and wines, and service couldn't have been more welcoming. Kate Schmidt

Al Primo Canto
5414 W. Devon | 773-631-0100

$$$$
LATIN AMERICAN, ITALIAN | DINNER: SUNDAY, TUESDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED MONDAY | OPEN LATE: THURSDAY-SATURDAY TILL 11

Georges Elbekai, a former partner in Semiramis, spent two years developing this Brazilian galeteria specializing in galeto al primo canto, marinated young grilled chicken (the stunning stainless steel churrasco was imported from Brazil). The menu reflects Brazil's multiethnic composition, starting with rich, silky eggplant caponatto (baba ghanoush) served with warm Lebanese-style pita and fabulous cheese puffs. For $29.95, an all-you-can-eat "endless feast" comes to the table, beginning with a delightfully crisp, light polenta frita topped with Parmigiano Reggiano and pasta with three sauces (funghi, marinari, and aioli). Then comes the meat: crisp-skinned, flavorful chicken, tender grilled beef tenderloin, and luscious marinated lamb. A green salad with a lemony lemon vinaigrette was nicely composed, and sides include seasonal vegetables and crunchy double-cooked potatoes with an addictive Gorgonzola sauce. Under talented Brazilian-born chef Luciana Godoy desserts are a highlight as well: classic vanilla flan, warm guava cake with mascarpone sauce, and nutmeg-dusted acorn squash with cinnamon ice cream and caramel sauce, the topper. There are no sword-toting tarted-up gauchos to trouble you, and in all Al Primo Canto offers the churrascaria experience in a significantly more civilized manner than other spots for a lower price. Gary Wiviott

Between Boutique Cafe & Lounge
1324 N. Milwaukee | 773-292-0585

$$$
BAR/LOUNGE, SMALL PLATES, GLOBAL/ FUSION/ECLECTIC | DINNER: TUESDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED SUNDAY, MONDAY | OPEN LATE: TUESDAY-SATURDAY TILL 2

Deep red walls and red brocade chandeliers, cloistered alcoves outfitted with cushy sofas and sweeping fringe curtains, candles on every table, and orchids on every plate: sexy, romantic Between Boutique Cafe & Lounge seems designed to seal the deal. The late-night lounge serves booze-spiked bubble teas and a baker's dozen of luxurious small plates created by chef Radhika Desai, formerly sous chef at Vermilion. Sweet Heat Shrimp was five juicy grilled crustaceans glazed with a tangy sauce of garlic, curry, and honey; the Between Green salad was an ample portion of mixed greens spiked with avocado, mushrooms, candied cashews, and caramelized onions. Baturas are a house specialty, a twist on the Punjabi classic made with crispy fried bread stuffed with spicy ground beef, shiitakes, and scallion. At $18 the lobster trifecta -- a trio of bisque, risotto cakes, and maki -- is the most expensive thing on the menu, and was the only real disappointment. While the bisque was ethereal perfection, rich, light, and ever-so-slightly sweet, the risotto cakes were bland and the maki mealy and mushy. But three out of four ain't bad, and the casually luxe scene -- blessedly mellow for Friday night in Wicker Park -- is the real showstopper. Martha Bayne

Blu Sushi Lounge
1710 Orrington, Evanston | 847-491-9220

$$$
JAPANESE, BAR/LOUNGE | LUNCH: MONDAY-SATURDAY; DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 11

Can Evanston muster enough trendies to fill Blu, or will they have to run a shuttle from Wicker Park? This space in the Hotel Orrington is sleek red and white, with twisty crimson chandeliers and a dark cocoonish upstairs lounge. The mixed-drink menu favors martinis with more ingredients than jambalaya; luckily an excellent wine list runs heavily to California vintages, along with a couple dozen sakes. The menu goes on for pages, but skip the largely uninspiring appetizers and entrees -- it's the sushi that rocks. Otoro felt luscious, and smoked salmon tasted of wood smoke and ocean. Blu's signature rolls also shine: the huge Smoky Bear-seared smoked salmon over shrimp tempura had excellent flavor, while the Crunchy Melt, a shrimp-tempura roll with melted mozzarella, proves yet again that melting cheese on anything makes it better. Desserts also excel, especially the molten chocolate minicake and fried banana spring roll with five-spice ice cream. The service doesn't -- our waitress brought one intact minicake and one that, she announced, had "exploded," making no attempt to replace it or comp us for the gloppy if delicious mess she'd served. Without spoons. Floyd Elliot

Bluprint
222 Merchandise Mart Plaza | 312-410-9800

$$$$
AMERICAN, AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY/ REGIONAL, BAR/LOUNGE | LUNCH: MONDAY-FRIDAY; DINNER: MONDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED SUNDAY | OPEN LATE: SATURDAY TILL 11

This bar and restaurant inside the north lobby of the Merchandise Mart more than does aesthetic justice to its location: sleek and serene to the nth degree, it left me half expecting to find Mies van der Rohe nursing a drink there. Cocktails, which revolve around a sort of mod space tiki theme, are superb, serious and well crafted as well as fun. They include the Postmodern Blu: berry vodka, blueberry schnapps, lychee liqueur, and lime juice served in a glass with a blue-sugared rim. An accompanying lounge menu offers substantial nibbles, among them lust-worthy Parmesan-truffle fries with garlic aioli; other choices are a Wagyu burger, gyros kebab, and baby octopus. Dinner needs some calibration though. A fine cut of aged sirloin with mushroom puree, rosemary potatoes, and roasted shallots was harmonious but alas served bloody rare even though requested medium. Likewise, the yellowfin tuna looked beautiful on the plate accompanied by fingerling potatoes and escabeched veggies but was curiously underwhelming. There are a range of pastas, salads, and other entrees like Amish chicken and a boneless leg of lamb, and dessert comes out a winner, the chocolate "assembly" of brownie, bananas, and spiced cream in particular. Rob Christopher

Cafe 103
1909 W. 103rd | 773-238-5115

$$$$
AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY/REGIONAL, GLOBAL/FUSION/ECLECTIC | DINNER: TUESDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED SUNDAY, MONDAY | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 11 | BYO

Thomas Eckert, formerly of the Indian-fusion spots Vermilion and Monsoon, heads the kitchen at this tiny new seasonally focused BYO in Beverly, run by the owners of Beverly's Pantry next door. Traces of his old jobs show up all over the menu -- pheasant-breast risotto was flecked with tandoori-spiced sea salt, garam masala, and methi leaves. An entree of farmer's cheese and sous-vide vegetables had a creamy shrikhand saag dressing, and the cheese itself was indistinguishable from a big block of Indian paneer. The whipped cream on a "banana split," with caramelized banana and a trio of gelati, was also laced with garam masala. Competing flavors sometimes get away from Eckert, as in a confusing starter of melon balls topped with prosciutto, microtarragon, and an Alaskan king crab leg, floating in a salty coconut broth. Simpler dishes, like a curried corn chowder with tapioca pearls and lemon custard, and a grilled sturgeon with mashed sweet potatoes and oxtail ragout, were complete knockouts, and a cheesecake with peaches and basil leaves alone was worth the trek. Prices are high for a BYO, with entrees averaging $24, but Cafe 103 is a worthy contender to Koda, till now the only upscale choice in the area. Tasneem Paghdiwala

English
444 N. LaSalle | 312-222-6200

$$$
BAR/LOUNGE, AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY/ REGIONAL | LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 1, OTHER NIGHTS TILL MIDNIGHT

Chicago's kudzulike gastropub invasion continues with this handsome new River North spot from the folks behind the Bar Celona and Grand Central. But when the food is this decent, why carp at the trend? Housed in a vintage three-story building that manages to be both chic and pretty comfy, English has a large bar and several tables for groups on the first floor and a handful of pool tables and booths on the second. The English Crisps appetizer is a huge platter of waffle-cut fries heaped with shredded pork, cheese, red cabbage, scallions, and sour cream. It was certainly snackable (and perfect for sharing) but despite the pile of ingredients it lacked oomph, and the fries were rather soggy. Things improved dramatically when the entrees arrived: the pan-seared chicken was pronounced "nearly orgasmic" by my friend. Tender but with exquisitely crispy skin, it was accompanied by chunky mashed potatoes and roast carrots -- a simple dish but very satisfying. The fish-and-chips were just as good; salty shoestring potatoes and generous pieces of battered fish that tasted fresher and less greasy than they usually do elsewhere. Among the drinks don't pass up the traditional Pimm's Cup, a refreshing mix of Pimm's liqueur, gin, soda water, and fresh fruit. Prices are very reasonable so beware: English is already packed with boisterous happy-hour suits in the evenings. Expect a noisy nosh. Rob Christopher

Fat Cat
4840 N. Broadway | 773-506-3100

$
BAR/LOUNGE, AMERICAN | DINNER: SEVEN DAYS; SATURDAY AND SUNDAY BRUNCH | OPEN LATE: EVERY NIGHT TILL MIDNIGHT | RESERVATIONS NOT ACCEPTED

O the plague of the flat-panel television! It's what prevents a lounge like Fat Cat, with its 20s-and-30s-inspired lighting fixtures, curved booths, and elegant wood bar, from being the handsome, wholly comfortable spot it could be. On the other hand, one of the TVs was showing The Thin Man Goes Home, so I can't be too unforgiving. And the food and drinks are way above average. An excellent selection of beers on tap and in bottles is supplemented by a whimsical cocktail list. Try the Prohibition, a multihued variation on the Rum Runner that goes down smoothly. On the food side, burgers, salads, fried chicken, and $1 mini Cuban pork belly sandwiches (the last two are available Wednesdays only) are all good bets. There are also creative appetizers like fried mac 'n' cheese and Reuben balls, bundles of corned beef and Swiss rolled inside rye dough and then deep-fried. The waitstaff is quite friendly without being obnoxious, and the large space easily accommodates groups. On Sundays there's free cornhole and tournaments. Rob Christopher

Il Fiasco
5101 N. Clark | 773-769-9700

$$
ITALIAN | DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 11

There's one thing I have to hand to Il Fiasco: it provides the most delicious-looking jar of dog biscuits I've seen sitting outside an Andersonville Italian restaurant. With the neighborhood resembling a nuovo Little Italy more and more with each passing day, you'd think one of these places would raise the stakes and try to be surprising, or God forbid, as exceptional as local Sicilian bakery Pasticerria Natalina. With that exception, there's a proliferation of the average, about which the best that can be said is that they are mostly inexpensive. Il Fiasco, in the space where Rioja and Atlantique died, is certainly affordable -- no entree tops $19, and most pizzas and pastas don't rise above $12. Chef Philip Reed, who's cooked in Tuscany, is no greenhorn, but his dishes sprawl across the place-mat menu and more vaguely across the regions -- Bolognese sauce here, Sicilian marsala there, Lombardy's Gorgonzola there, there, and there -- though I'm hornswoggled about where jalapeno gnocchi is supposed to come from. Maybe that overextension is why nearly everything I sampled seemed aggressively unexceptional, from the bacon-wrapped dates to the mashed potatoes served at room temperature with a pork tenderloin on the tough side. Sauteed scallops were chewy, a sweet pea puree muscled out lamb chops, and pasta shells with sausage were bogged down in marinara. A bright spot: in a city where the appreciation for quality authentic Italian pizza grows every time someone lights a fire, the margherita more than held its own. Mike Sula

Gloria's Cafe
3300 W. Fullerton | 773-342-1050

$$
LATIN AMERICAN | LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | BYO

Recently reopened under new ownership (with an actual Gloria at the helm) this little Colombian joint is putting out lovingly made home-style plates. My (admittedly limited) experience with arepas (corn cakes) had me believing they were dry, lifeless pucks, but here the cheese and sweet corn (choclo) arepa appetizers both were moist and cakey -- a lesson well learned. Empanadas with mild chimichurri were swell, particularly the spinach, garlic, and potato variety, as was a "Colombian Hummus" with no identifiable South American traits. Among Caesar and house salads there's an unusual rice and shrimp ensalada with sweet plantains, chile flakes, and a sweet-and-sour sauce that wouldn't be out of place on a Thai menu. Rotisserie chickens are marinated, blazed well, and available in various sums of their parts. The traditional and steak dishes come with ample starchy and fibrous sides (rice, cassava, plantains, beans). I'm particularly partial to the bandeja paisa (country platter), a manly pile of sides, chicharrones, chorizo, grilled flank steak, and a fried egg. Mike Sula

Jerry's
1938 W. Division | 773-235-1006

$
BAR/LOUNGE, AMERICAN, BURGERS | LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL 11 | RESERVATIONS ACCEPTED FOR LARGE GROUPS ONLY

I don't know why a sandwich of smoked salmon, avocado, cheddar, and spicy chutney would be named the "Groucho M" or a combo of turkey meat loaf, bacon, peppers, and southwest mayo the "Edith P." I only know that they are awesome, especially with a side of smoky mac 'n' cheese (two sides come with every sandwich). There are more than 100 sandwiches on the menu at Jerry's, 500 or so considering bread choices -- pretzel roll, brioche, focaccia, ciabatta, plus regular white, wheat, and rye. Or make your own from the "Bumsteadian lineup" of fillings and condiments -- do corned beef, strawberry jam, and feta go well on multigrain? You tell me! If not, wash it down with something off the equally huge and eclectic beer list; it's the best thing this side of Armitage, with nice picks from New Holland, Ommegang, and Victory. There's also coffee from Metropolis and a handful of desserts every night -- if there's a chocolate mousse cake when you go, get it (get two). I've heard complaints about service -- the place looks a bit snooty and was disorganized in its earliest weeks -- but everything was copacetic at the bar, where the full menu is served. There's outdoor seating too, but there you risk getting mowed down by yuppies and their dogs on their way to Crust. Tasneem Paghdiwala

Orange on Roscoe
2011 W. Roscoe | 773-248-0999

$$
AMERICAN, BREAKFAST | BRUNCH: SEVEN DAYS; DINNER: WEDNESDAY-SATURDAY; SATURDAY & SUNDAY BRUNCH | OPEN LATE: SATURDAY TILL 11

The perpetually popular brunch destination has followed the Clark Street restaurant in adding dinner at its new location on Roscoe. If my visit was any indication, perhaps they'd better stick to what they're known for. The Orange on Roscoe is the only one with a liquor license, and things started off well with mojitos that were exuberantly minty and not overly sweet. The crusted Brie starter was also quite good: a nearly molten triangle of cheese and thin, salty toasts that contrasted wonderfully with tangy orange marmalade and crisp Granny Smith slices. And then the entrees arrived. The salmon, served with a rice pilaf, was firm and had a flavorful crust but it was overpriced at $18.95. The biggest disappointment was the braised pork osso buco, which looked artful on the plate but, although described on the menu as "falling-off-the-bone tender," was stringy, fatty, and indifferently seasoned to boot. Perhaps the other entrees, among them steak and vegetarian potpie, are more satisfying. Desserts include Orange's signature Frushie (fruit sushi) and a few cakes. The atmosphere is certainly more relaxed for dinner than brunch, with most tables empty. Rob Christopher

Otom
951 W. Fulton | 312-491-5804

$$$
AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY/REGIONAL | DINNER: MONDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED SUNDAY | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL MIDNIGHT, MONDAY-THURSDAY TILL 11

If every move Homaro Cantu makes for the rest of his young life isn't burdened by the expectation of sharks with frickin' laser beams on their heads, he'll be a lucky cookie. So I wondered if the early indifferent reports about Otom, Moto's loungey little sister, were a matter of his high-tech asylum lowering the property values of his bungalow next door. Nah -- Otom has real problems. Moto's former sous chef Daryl Nash came on late in the game, burdened with a program of upscale comfort food -- already the most cliched kitchen reality show plotline ever. The relatively affordable new menu has plenty of riffs on grandma's repertoire: chicken potpie with egg noodles and sweet corn, apricot ribs with slaw and pickles, grilled sirloin with mashed potatoes. An otherwise satisfying grilled cheese sandwich trio was knocked off balance by the Virginia ham with unmelted cheddar. Sea bass with grits and ham hocks was tough, overseared fish mounted on too-salty greens and pork. But Cantu-esque theatrics livened up dessert: a scoop of vanilla ice cream slowly sinks its way through a pastry pagoda roof until it plops into the stewed cherries below. Voila! -- cobbler. On the brightest possible side, the waitstaff crack encyclopedic about the tiny menu and more rounded wine list, no doubt under the tutelage of the excellent sommelier who produced a perfect off-menu Rieslaner for the cobbler. Mike Sula

Piccolo Cafe
859 N. Damen | 773-772-3355

$
ITALIAN, ICE CREAM | LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | RESERVATIONS NOT ACCEPTED

The decor at Piccolo, a new gelateria in Ukrainian Village owned by Phil McFarland and Ty Fujimura (Lava Lounge, Small Bar), is spare almost to the point of being sparse. It stands to reason: judging from the selection of gelati, panini, salads, and bruschetta, the focus so far has simply been on the food. The selection of rotating gelato flavors recently ranged from Vietnamese cinnamon to lychee to lemon-basil, an unexpected standout, and everything is made in-house from fresh ingredients -- which means not only that the strawberry gelato is made with fresh strawberries but also that they roast the nuts for the pistachio and hazelnut gelati and cure the beef for the bresaola panini. It also means that the mint and pistachio gelati are not the neon green so often associated with those flavors, and taking a bite of the pistachio is uncannily similar to eating the roasted nuts. The chocolate flavors available when I visited -- Jivara, a milk chocolate, and Manjari, dark chocolate made from Madagascan cocoa beans -- were made from Valrhona cocoa powder. Quality over quantity seems to be not just a motto but a mandate here: small cups of gelato are the only size available, and there are no cones. The flavors are so intense, though, that even a modest cup is plenty. Julia Thiel

Pomegranate
1633 Orrington, Evanston | 847-475-6002

$
MIDDLE EASTERN, MEDITERRANEAN | LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | RESERVATIONS NOT ACCEPTED | BYO

The longtime owner of Hyde Park's the Nile is behind this less formal Middle Eastern spot on Orrington Avenue. It's clearly designed with Northwestern students in mind, with counter service and ultracheap prices, but the food's surprisingly good. Salads -- Jerusalem, fattoush, tabbouleh -- are fresh, and the red lentil soup is a complete steal at $1.85 for a nice-size cup. A combo plate of hummus, baba ghanoush, falafel, and cinnamony dolmas is just $5. There are the usual sandwiches in thin pita wraps, like falafel and kefta kebab, and a signature "steak in a sack," an open-faced steak pileup with loads of onions and a zesty sauce. Platters come with a skewer of roasted veggies, pita, and yellow rice (the only disappointment, it's a little Uncle Ben's-ish). The meat's juicy and nicely spiced though. For dessert: baklava, rice pudding, and harissa (a semolina-flour cake dosed with simple syrup). Tasneem Paghdiwala

La Pomme Rouge
108 W. Kinzie | 312-245-9555

$$$
BAR/LOUNGE, SMALL PLATES | DINNER: MONDAY-THURSDAY, SATURDAY | CLOSED SUNDAY, FRIDAY | OPEN LATE: MONDAY-THURSDAY, SATURDAY TILL 12:45

Success could spoil La Pomme Rouge. Fill it with noisy crowds and no one will fully appreciate executive chef Jeffrey Mauro's sophisticated creations. But when I took a bite out of the apple earlier this summer, I found it surprisingly polished. A caviar napoleon, at $10 the poor person's alternative to osetra or sevruga service ($300 and $200 respectively), was a cute if salty conceit: two mini English muffins mounded with scrambled eggs, crispy pancetta, and American sturgeon caviar, crowned by potato-bacon foam. Silken foie gras torchon surpassed most pats and, being contraband, perfectly fit the temptation theme. The menu doesn't distinguish between appetizers and entrees, so "roasted chicken breast" turned out to be a lovely little salad with watercress and apricots matched with a foie-filled tortellini, while the pan-seared rib eye with melted onions and fingerling potatoes made a deliciously rich meal. Simultaneously sweet and savory, the individual Roquefort-apple quiche works as a cheese course or dessert. I might skip the mousselike gianduia cremeux -- but only reluctantly. Fridays and Sundays are now reserved for private events. Anne Spiselman

Sepia
123 N. Jefferson | 312-441-1920

$$$$
AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY/REGIONAL | DINNER: SEVEN DAYS

Opening hype can strain any restaurant, but Emmanuel Nony's Sepia, just around the corner from Blackbird, is holding up quite well. Creative chef Kendal Duque (Everest, Tru, NoMi) is running the kitchen, and out front savvy servers seem happy to be there. Two of the ten appetizers ($8-$13) suggest the chef's range: nuggets of moist rabbit paired with delicate ricotta dumplings in a Riesling reduction are minimalism made edible, while ultratender charred octopus piled on a toasted baguette slice in tomato sauce is as robust and rustic as the cast-iron pot it comes in. The succulent slow-baked veal breast on wide, lightly minted noodles ($23) has become a signature entree not simply by default (what other trendy restaurants serve veal breast?) but because it's delicious. I also liked the thick Berkshire pork chop complemented by crunchy pickled wild onions ($25). Dry flourless chocolate cake without the promised mint ganache was the only real disappointment. Sage-lemon bread pudding, on the other hand, was like the best-ever French toast, and I loved the melting sweet corn and blackberry jam ice cream. The eclectic, affordable wine list ($30-$80 bottles, $8-$12 by the glass) rounded out an enjoyable experience. Anne Spiselman

Shikago
190 S. LaSalle | 312-781-7300

$$$$
ASIAN, JAPANESE | LUNCH: MONDAY-FRIDAY; DINNER: MONDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED SUNDAY | OPEN LATE: SATURDAY TILL 11

Shikago, the most recent venture from Kevin Shikami (Jimmy's Place, Confusion, Kevin), is at ground level in the canyon that is the LaSalle Street financial district. On a relatively slow Saturday night, we were rendered breathless by dish after memorable dish. Roasted quail with braised radish, hazelnuts, garlic chives, a maiitake mushroom ragout, and Shaoshing wine sauce was remarkable, but even commonplace appetizers like tuna tartare and salmon maki with avocado and cilantro were brought to life by a caring hand and premium ingredients. The pan-Asian fusion entrees on the constantly changing menu created subtle harmonies: red snapper in a sweet galangal sauce balanced slightly bitter Chinese broccoli and earthy chanterelles; sugary bulgogi was paired with delicately sharp daikon, peppery arugula, and scallion pancake straws; Alaskan salmon, sweetened with papaya, was perked up with lemongrass and peekytoe crab slivers in flowery jasmine rice. Flavors amplify one another in a lime semifreddo served with a nectarine tart, and the pineapple trio displayed variations worthy of a Bach fugue: vanilla-poached and soy-caramelized pineapple, a cinnamon-sugar pineapple "doughnut," and a refreshing pineapple-cinnamon sorbet. Though sophisticated, this place puts on no airs: tables are cross sections of centuries-old trees and the decor is Zen-like. There's a take-out counter at lunchtime. David Hammond

South Coast
1700 S. Michigan | 312-662-1700

$$$
ASIAN, JAPANESE | LUNCH: SATURDAY-SUNDAY; DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: MONDAY-SATURDAY TILL 11 | BYO

Teeming with attractive South Loopers, South Coast's sleek space is outfitted with chandeliers resembling the tentacles of aquatic creatures, swaying to club music cranked to 11. As with Coast, its north-side sibling, the focus here is on stylish "new Japanese" cuisine. Thankfully, our waiter gave us the heads-up on more staid sushi specials -- fatty salmon, hamachi, and uni ($4 per) -- each spanking fresh and bright; we seriously grooved on the geoduck, a northwestern clam rare in Chicago, sea tasty and well textured. With our chirashi ($24), though the fish was expertly cut and artfully arranged, too many bites of this traditional sashimi on vinegar rice were limp and watery; "angry salmon," however, was bursting with mouth-filling omega threes, the fleshy fish holding firm against chile-piquant "dynamite sauce." There's a lot of seafood here dressed with zesty jalapeno, mango, and even corn, rolled in a wide range of attractive maki, tempura fried and drizzled with sauce. Bring wine or beer to sweeten your bill significantly; for a $5 corkage, expect fresh glasses with every new bottle (even if you're just drinking beer) and servers who uncork and pour your beverage, which should be (but isn't) SOP for all BYOBs. David Hammond

Trattoria Trullo
4767 N. Lincoln | 773-506-0093

$$$
ITALIAN | LUNCH, DINNER: SEVEN DAYS | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY & SATURDAY TILL MIDNIGHT, OTHER NIGHTS TILL 11 | RESERVATIONS ACCEPTED FOR LARGE GROUPS ONLY

Giovanni de Nigris moved his Evanston trattoria into the abandoned kiddie-playground G.P. Franklin's but continues to specialize in the food of Puglia, which like other southern Italian regions is associated with cucina povera, the food of the poor, whose simple culinary ingenuity is celebrated in these fat times. Grilled mixed seafood over white beans and rapini in a slightly peppery oil might have been an auspicious start if it had spent any recent quality time with a heat source. (In fact, this was a recurring problem with nearly everything ordered on a busy Thursday night.) Sticking to the Pugliese specialties, denoted helpfully on the menu, eggplant stuffed with spinach and bread crumbs was dull and mushy, but pasta courses showed more promise, like the ur-Pugliese orecchiette with rapini (which could've used more chile) and ziti with white bean puree. Secondi were good enough but overshadowed by their accompaniments -- a competently cooked halibut fillet was perched on a terrific, slightly tomatoey carnaroli risotto and a cheese-blanketed veal scallopini couldn't stand up to the simple, perfectly cooked summer vegetables on the side. The wine list is heavy on Pugliese reds, and there's a deli case and retail operation in the front of the house that stocks cheeses, olives, pastas, and oils for takeaway. Mike Sula

Vice
840 W. Randolph | 312-733-3379

$$$$
BAR/LOUNGE, SMALL PLATES | DINNER: TUESDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED SUNDAY, MONDAY | OPEN LATE: FRIDAY TILL 3, SATURDAY TILL 2, THURSDAY TILL 1 | RESERVATIONS ACCEPTED FOR LARGE GROUPS ONLY

The menu dubs Vice an "amuse bouche boutique," but since the small bites come in multiples designed for sharing, that's just a euphemism for small plates. Cases in point: five dainty wonton cups of piquant Asian tuna tartare and an "ahi aji quesadilla," a quartet of mini flour tortillas topped with peppers and tiny slices of seared tuna. That these cost $10 and $12 respectively, unlike the complimentary amuses in posh restaurants, may cause curmudgeons to cry "less for more," but that doesn't negate the virtues of chicken-liver mousse as rich as a foie gras terrine or a pair of plump two-ounce Kobe burgers on brioche buns with Camembert, pancetta, arugula, and tomato. Eating with Danish-modern baby silverware was sort of fun, and the spoon fit into the espresso cup of satiny mocha pot de creme. Not so fun: soggy seasonal tart tatin with one slice of overcooked white peach and the Vice Passion, a flute of flat prosecco and passion fruit puree. I don't know anyone who'd spring $355 for osetra caviar service and $605 for Dom Perignon ros here, but I might return for the $10 Kobe burgers (accompanied by crisp fries) and a $5 beer. Anne Spiselman

Send a letter to the editor.

From the Reader blogs

The Food Chain Julia Thiel: A hot-dog eating contest, Veggie Bingo, an all-you-can-eat clam bake, and more.
Wednesday at 4:30 pm